This costume, acquired for the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton, is an authentic Siamese dance costume, worn by the French dancer Cléo de Mérode. Siamese dance was a highly developed form related to Indian dance, but it was unknown in Europe until the early 20th century. Characteristic features of the costumes include the high, almost architectural headdress and wide collar, while the false fingernails would have intensified the impact of the hands, which play an important part in Siamese dance. The quality of the costume, especially the gold fabrics, is superb.

De Mérode was a leading dancer of her time, although her professional reputation became overshadowed by her beauty and fashion-setting hairstyle, and her possible liaison with the Belgian King Léopold, uncle to Queen Victoria.

Siamese dance is still relatively unknown in the West compared with Indian dance. Most people only experience it at second hand in Jerome Robbins's 'Small House of Uncle Thomas' ballet in Rodgers and Hammerstein's musical The King and I. Robbins's choreography used the characteristic elements of Siamese dance and theatre, although complete authenticity was out of the question in the context of a Broadway show.