Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Fragment
200-800 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This textile is of patterned weave silk and shows the remains of a boar in orange and black. It was intended for use as a burial face cover. It was recovered from the site of Astana, an ancient burial ground dating from the 3rd to the 8th century AD.
The site is part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.
The fragments were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Pattern woven silk
Brief description
Piece of pattern woven silk showing remains of a boar in orange and black, from Astana, 200-800
Physical description
Fragment of bi-coloured silk in orange and black showing an ear, part of a cheek, and part of a ruff with adjoining pearl border of boar's head pattern. Weft-faced compound twill.
Dimensions
  • Length: 11.9cm
  • Width: 7.3cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India.
Object history
The design of the boar's head, show during the mid-7th century typical Sassanian themes and are in weft-faced compound twill. The execution of the patterns and the colour schemes seem to suggest a Sogdian type of manufacture but necessary to make technical and chemical studies of the fibre and colours.
Historical context
Astana lies south of Turfan on the northern Silk Road. It once served as a burial site for Kharakhoja, an important trade centre during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). Here Stein unearthed a stunning array of burial objects, including: clay figurines, textiles, gold and silver coins, and thousand-year-old mortuary cakes, preserved in the dry heat of the desert. Ancient contracts for labour, land and grain purchases excavated at Astana and Kharakhoja show that carpets, rolls of silk, cotton and linen were often used as money. The V&A holds several silk fragments, dating from the third to the sixth century. These include plain and pattern-woven pieces, some of which have been resist-dyed, painted and embroidered. These figured silks incorporate decorative themes from Central Asia, Persia and China; reflecting the rich mingling of cultures which occurred along the Silk Road.
Subject depicted
Association
Summary
This textile is of patterned weave silk and shows the remains of a boar in orange and black. It was intended for use as a burial face cover. It was recovered from the site of Astana, an ancient burial ground dating from the 3rd to the 8th century AD.
The site is part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.
The fragments were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.
Bibliographic references
  • Zhao, Feng. Treasures in Silk. An illustrated history of Chinese textiles. Hong Kong: ISAT / Costume Square Ltd., 1999.
  • Stein, Aurel, Sir. Innermost Asia; Detailed report of explorations in Central Asia, Kan-Su and Eastern Iran, 4 vols (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1928), vol. II, p. 681.
Other number
Ast.i.6.01 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.679

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Record createdFebruary 23, 2004
Record URL
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