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On loan
  • On short term loan out for exhibition

Kamishimo

1800-1850 (made)
Place of origin

This two piece outfit, called a kamishimo, was the everyday formal wear of the Japanese samurai and would have been worn over a kimono. The upper garment, called a kataginu, is sleeveless with extended shoulders stiffened with paper. The lower pleated garment, known as hakama, has narrow ties and a waist board designed to give support to the back. The kataginu would have been tucked into the hakama (although this has not been done for mounting so as not to damage the fabric).

Kamishimo are generally made of hemp rather than silk and are patterned using stencils. The family crest, or mon, of the samurai, resisted with paste and then brushed with pigments, appears on the front and back of the kataginu and the back board of the hakama. It is the crest of the Aoyama clan. This ensemble is quite small, so may have been for a boy.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Kataginu (Jacket)
  • Hakama (Trousers)
Materials and techniques
Plain-weave bast fibre with stencil paste-resist design
Brief description
Kamishimo (jacket and trousers), hemp, Japan, 1800-1850
Physical description
Kamishimo ensemble consisting of a pleated lower garment (hakama) and an open sleeveless jacket with wide shoulders (kataginu). Hemp with an all-over small stencil paste-resist design reserved in white on a light blue background. This type of patterning is called komon. The crests (mon) - three on the jacket, one on the back of the hakama - are of the Aoyama clan. The extended shoulders of the jacket and the back panel of the hakama are stiffened with paper, that on the hakama being in many layers to make it completely inflexible. Kamishimo were worn by samurai men on formal occasions during the Edo period, over a kimono, the jacket being loosely tucked into the hakama.
Style
Gallery label
Most men of the samurai class wore kamishimo for formal occasions. This consists of hakama (a pleated lower garment) and an open sleeveless jacket with wide shoulders called a kataginu. The garments are generally patterned using a small-scale stencil technique. This example is short, so was probably worn by a boy.
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1980/1359.
Summary
This two piece outfit, called a kamishimo, was the everyday formal wear of the Japanese samurai and would have been worn over a kimono. The upper garment, called a kataginu, is sleeveless with extended shoulders stiffened with paper. The lower pleated garment, known as hakama, has narrow ties and a waist board designed to give support to the back. The kataginu would have been tucked into the hakama (although this has not been done for mounting so as not to damage the fabric).

Kamishimo are generally made of hemp rather than silk and are patterned using stencils. The family crest, or mon, of the samurai, resisted with paste and then brushed with pigments, appears on the front and back of the kataginu and the back board of the hakama. It is the crest of the Aoyama clan. This ensemble is quite small, so may have been for a boy.
Bibliographic references
  • Jackson, Anna (editor), Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, London: V&A Publishing, 2020
  • Rout, Josephine, Japanese Dress in Detail, London: Thames & Hudson, 2020
Collection
Accession number
FE.46&A-1980

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Record createdFebruary 22, 2004
Record URL
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