Cloak thumbnail 1
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Cloak

Cloak
1850-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

In the 19th century Hungary was justifiably proud of its furriers' art, and we can see why when looking at this highly decorated detail from a floor-length sheepskin coat. The coat has been decorated using three techniques: patchwork, embroidery and appliqué. A strip of blue leather, embroidered with a meandering stem of leaves and flower heads, has been inserted into the natural brown leather that forms the cloak. Sprays of stylised flowers and leaves have been embroidered onto the brown leather using satin-stitch, with the silk thread taken all the way through the leather and back again. The scalloped band of leather running across the lower end of the image has been applied on top of the brown leather actually covering part of the embroidery. The garment has been finished with tabs and tassels. Its decoration demonstrates how skilfully tough leather can be worked. This occupation requires great strength and was always the preserve of men.

The ravages of wear and time have changed the appearance of this cloak. Many of the coloured skins have faded from their original rather acid tones and most of the wool has decayed and fallen out, although part of a deep border of black lambskin can be seen at the very bottom of the image.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleCloak
Materials and techniques
Embroidered leather with silk and applique
Brief description
Cloak, leather, silk, embroidered, Hungary (Veszprém), 1850-1899.
Physical description
Man's cloak (suba) of embroidered leather with silk. The coat opens out to a semi-circle of brown leather edged with goat skin which retains its fur. It has a collar of similar skin lined with pink silk, a leather cord and tassels for fastening. Leather rosettes along the bottom hem. Decorated with yellow and blue goatskin applied in vertical stripes and a broad horizontal band about the shoulders. The applique strips are decorated with floral stems in brightly coloured silks and most of the panels contain sprays and flowers in similar embroidery. On each shoulder there is a small embroidered shield with the arms of Hungary and the crown of Saint Stephen.
Dimensions
  • Flat length: 146cm (maximum)
  • Flat width: 168cm (maximum)
Dimensions taken from historic register, and have not been checked.
Credit line
Given by Lady Worsley-Taylor
Object history
A note in the register says: 'this type of 'suba' is made in the Danube Valley especially about Gyongyos, where the industry has long been established and exports such coats to other parts of Hungary. A similar coat from (???) (in the Balkan district, SW Hungary) is illustrated in C. Viski 'L ARt Populaire Longroise (?)'.

A later addition says 'this type of cloak is ultimately derived from the German Rud-mantel (?) of the 16th century of Numberg. (Festshnt (?) Hampe. 1926. p.12-13).
Subject depicted
Summary
In the 19th century Hungary was justifiably proud of its furriers' art, and we can see why when looking at this highly decorated detail from a floor-length sheepskin coat. The coat has been decorated using three techniques: patchwork, embroidery and appliqué. A strip of blue leather, embroidered with a meandering stem of leaves and flower heads, has been inserted into the natural brown leather that forms the cloak. Sprays of stylised flowers and leaves have been embroidered onto the brown leather using satin-stitch, with the silk thread taken all the way through the leather and back again. The scalloped band of leather running across the lower end of the image has been applied on top of the brown leather actually covering part of the embroidery. The garment has been finished with tabs and tassels. Its decoration demonstrates how skilfully tough leather can be worked. This occupation requires great strength and was always the preserve of men.

The ravages of wear and time have changed the appearance of this cloak. Many of the coloured skins have faded from their original rather acid tones and most of the wool has decayed and fallen out, although part of a deep border of black lambskin can be seen at the very bottom of the image.
Bibliographic reference
Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002. 224 p., ill. ISBN 09781851773787. p. 202
Collection
Accession number
T.192-1931

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Record createdFebruary 10, 2004
Record URL
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