Not on display

The Stein Collection

Textile
1000-1250 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Of these three fragments of various shapes and techniques, two are monochrome plain weave of brown silk, while the third is a polychrome gauze weave made of resist-dyed buff coloured silk with small floral shapes and roundels reserved in cream colour. The roundels are printed with floral designs in yellow and black. It is unclear what these textiles would have been used for, although they are likely to have had a decorative purpose. They were recovered from the Buddhist site of Kharakoto, which dates from the 11th to the 13th century. The name Kharakhoto means 'The Black Town', this probably refers to the massive walls and bastions that were still visible above ground when excavations on this site began.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India along this route.

These textiles were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of animals.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Plain woven silk, resist dyed, and printed silk gauze
Brief description
Two plain woven brown silk and one resist dyed gauze, excavated in Khara-Khoto, 1000-1250
Physical description
Three fragments of various shapes. Two pieces are the same monochrome plain weave made of brown silk. Third fragment is a polychrome gauze weave made of resist dyed buff coloured silk with small floral shapes and roundels reserved in cream colour. The roundels are printed with floral designs in yellow and black.
Dimensions
  • Largest fragment length: 20.9cm
  • Largest fragment width: 9.2cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India
Object history
At one point the two plain woven silks must have been separated, as Stein only states two fragments, one plain woven and one gauze.
Historical context
Kharakhoto lies east of the Tarim Basin, near Mongolia. The city was founded in the eleventh century AD by the Tanguts, an agricultural people; and Kharakhoto became capital of their Xixia Kingdom in the twelfth century AD. Overrun by the Mongols during the thirteenth century, Kharakhoto was retaken by the Chinese during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD). A Buddhist stupa at the site yielded paintings on silk, Buddhist manuscripts and woodblock prints, and hundreds of terracotta Buddha images. The V&A holds on loan four dyed and patterned silks from Kharakhoto.
Subject depicted
Association
Summary
Of these three fragments of various shapes and techniques, two are monochrome plain weave of brown silk, while the third is a polychrome gauze weave made of resist-dyed buff coloured silk with small floral shapes and roundels reserved in cream colour. The roundels are printed with floral designs in yellow and black. It is unclear what these textiles would have been used for, although they are likely to have had a decorative purpose. They were recovered from the Buddhist site of Kharakoto, which dates from the 11th to the 13th century. The name Kharakhoto means 'The Black Town', this probably refers to the massive walls and bastions that were still visible above ground when excavations on this site began.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India along this route.

These textiles were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of animals.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilson, Verity. 'Early Textiles from Central Asia: Approaches to Study with reference to the Stein Loan Collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London', Textile History 26 (1) . Devon: David & Charles/Pasold Research Fund Ltd, 1995, pp.23-52.ill.
  • Stein, Aurel, Sir. Innermost Asia; Detailed report of explorations in Central Asia, Kan-Su and Eastern Iran, 4 vols (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1928), vol. I, p. 486.
Other number
K.K.II.0244.xxix - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.551:1 to 3

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Record createdJanuary 7, 2004
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