Not on display

Evening Dress

1937 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Chanel created extravagant evening wear such as this sequinned dress and cape. The combination of glistening black sequins and scarlet satin panels is very dramatic. The rows of overlapping 'fish-scale' sequins emphasise the supple, falling lines of the outfit. The short, semi-circular cape has a scarlet satin lining.

Mrs Leo d'Erlanger wore this ensemble, which forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. Sir Cecil Beaton was a society photographer. With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed élite of Europe and North America to help create this monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Evening Dress
  • Evening Cape
Materials and techniques
Silk satin and net embroidered with sequins, lined with satin
Brief description
Full length evening dress and cape of silk satin and net embroidered with sequins, designed by Coco Chanel for CHANEL, Paris, Autumn Winter 1937
Physical description
Full length evening dress and cape of black net entirely covered with overlapping black sequins, and with a crimson satin double waistband and gores inset into the skirt. With a short and semi-circular shoulder cape of crimson silk satin with the outside entirely covered in overlapping black sequins as with the dress.

Dress with a sleeveless bodice and decolleté with straps. Side gusset of red scarlet. Side hook fastening attached to the bodice, and at the waist is a boned foundation panel.

The cape is lined with red satin. Round neck and hook fastening.
Production typeHaute couture
Gallery label
[Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024] DRESS AND CAPE The striking colour scheme, contrasting sashes and short shoulder cape here evoke a Catholic cardinal’s cassock and pellegrina cape. American socialite Mrs Leo d’Erlanger wore this ensemble. She regularly featured in fashion and society magazines in the 1930s, including American Vogue, Tatler and The Sketch, and was celebrated for her sense of style. Autumn/Winter 1937 Silk satin, net and sequins V&A: T.87&A-1974 Given by Mrs Leo d’Erlanger(September 2023)
Credit line
Given by Mrs Leo d'Erlanger
Summary
Chanel created extravagant evening wear such as this sequinned dress and cape. The combination of glistening black sequins and scarlet satin panels is very dramatic. The rows of overlapping 'fish-scale' sequins emphasise the supple, falling lines of the outfit. The short, semi-circular cape has a scarlet satin lining.

Mrs Leo d'Erlanger wore this ensemble, which forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. Sir Cecil Beaton was a society photographer. With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed élite of Europe and North America to help create this monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.
Bibliographic references
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 49
  • Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. "Gabrielle Chanel". London: V&A Publishing, 2023 p 184 Extravagant eveningwear such as this full-length, sequinned net dress and cape, from 1937, was a staple of Chanel’s creative output during the 1930s. The combination of glistening black sequins and scarlet satin is striking. The dress is made of black net entirely covered with overlapping black sequins and features a sleeveless bodice with straps, constructed over a boned foundation panel at the waist. A satin double sash encircles the waist, flowing into matching panels inset into the skirt. The short, semi-circular cape has been lined with the same scarlet satin. This red-and-black colour scheme, combined with the sash and shoulder cape, evokes a Catholic cardinal’s cassock and mozzetta or pellegrina cape. The ensemble was worn by American socialite Mrs Leo d’Erlanger, formerly Miss Edwina Prue. She featured regularly in fashion and society magazines in the 1930s, including American Vogue, Tatler and The Sketch, and was celebrated for her sense of style and beauty.
Collection
Accession number
T.87&A-1974

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Record createdJanuary 7, 2004
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