Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Textile
300-500 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These textile fragments are of plain woven cream and red wool and cotton. Their original use is unknown although they are likely to have had a utilitarian function. They were recovered from the site of Miran Fort on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. Many textile fragments were discovered here in the remains of a fort held by the Tibetans during their domination of the southern Taklamakan in the 8th century AD.

The site is part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

The fragments were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 13 parts.

  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
  • Textile Fragment
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Plain woven cotton and wool
Brief description
Twelve assorted fragments in cream and red wool and cotton
Physical description
Twelve fragments of monochrome plain weave cream and red wool and cotton. Eleven are tied together with museum label and the twelfth is separate and individually labelled.
Dimensions
  • Largest piece length: 16.5cm
  • Largest piece width: 10cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India.
Object history
Textiles have been housed in a cream envelope which has been labelled 'M.II.0013' and 'Cotton' probably by either or both Marc Aurel Stein and his assistant Miss F M G Lorimer, '(the smallest of 12 fragments the other 11 tied in a bundle' has been added by another hand at a later date.
Attached to 11 fragments is a rectangular tag label showing Stein number 'M.III.0012' and the date 31.1.07 possibly in Stein's handwriting or that of his assistant, Miss F M G Lorimer.
Attached to the remaining textile is a circular tag label showing Stein number M.III.0012
Historical context
Miran lies between Kargilik and kake Lop Nor on the southern Silk Road. Stein excavated an ancient fort and remains of a Buddhist sanctuary there in 1907 and uncovered spectacular Buddhist murals in its temples and stupas. These depicted winged figures with garlands; imagery which he identified with the mythology and style of Persia and Greece. The appearance of the signature "Tita" led Stein to conclude that the paintings were the work of an artist from the eastern Mediterranean. Temple sculpture, including a colossal Buddha head, was rendered in the opulent Gandharan style of northwest India. Stein called this fusion of regional styles Graeco-Buddhist and determined that the site had flourished in the first centuries of the millennium, when trade along the southern Silk Road had thrived. The V&A holds, on loan, from Miran, silk and wool fragments, and a group of lotus flowers made of cotton and silk and fragments of a painted cotton temple hanging.
Association
Summary
These textile fragments are of plain woven cream and red wool and cotton. Their original use is unknown although they are likely to have had a utilitarian function. They were recovered from the site of Miran Fort on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. Many textile fragments were discovered here in the remains of a fort held by the Tibetans during their domination of the southern Taklamakan in the 8th century AD.

The site is part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

The fragments were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.
Bibliographic reference
Stein, Aurel, Serindia: Detailed Report of Exploration in Central Asia and Westernmost China Carried Out and Described Under the Orders of H.M Indian Government , 5 vols (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1921), vol. I, p.542.
Other number
M.III.0012 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.239&:1 to 12

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Record createdJanuary 6, 2004
Record URL
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