Woman's ensemble thumbnail 1
Woman's ensemble thumbnail 2
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Not on display

This object consists of 4 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Woman's ensemble

Ensemble
1870-1920 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The three panels that have been attached to the bodice between lines of pintucks are examples of machine embroidery. The Schiffli embroidery machines were developed by Isaac Groebli in 1865 and could produce many varied effects, from simple eyelet embroidery to more complex patterns and structures such as these, which resemble certain types of lace. The subtleties of whitework are often overlooked, but when textures are skillfully combined, as they are here, so that light is alternately absorbed and reflected, it is the epitome of elegance.

In contrast, brightly coloured, solid, shiny embroidery almost entirely covers the straight sleeves on this blouse. There is no finesse in the design, no great skill demonstrated by the embroiderer but there is obvious delight in the abundance of colour and in the scale and profusion of the blossoms. The silk is barely twisted, its fibres lying almost parallel, and so it forms a very reflective surface. Yellow silk has been used to attach the sleeve to its separate cuff and yellow is picked up again as a highlight in the deep border of machine embroidery that forms the final section.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Blouse
  • Petticoat
  • Apron
  • Cap (Headgear)
TitleWoman's ensemble
Materials and techniques
Cotton, embroidered with silk and decorated with applied machine embroidery
Brief description
Woman's ensemble, cotton, silk, linen; Sisak, Croatia, 1870-1920
Physical description
Woman's blouse of cotton embroidered with silk and decorated with applied machine-embroidery.
Dimensions
  • Blouse length: 61cm
Historical measurements taken from register.
Credit line
Given by Mr and Mrs C. O. Wakefield-Harvey
Summary
The three panels that have been attached to the bodice between lines of pintucks are examples of machine embroidery. The Schiffli embroidery machines were developed by Isaac Groebli in 1865 and could produce many varied effects, from simple eyelet embroidery to more complex patterns and structures such as these, which resemble certain types of lace. The subtleties of whitework are often overlooked, but when textures are skillfully combined, as they are here, so that light is alternately absorbed and reflected, it is the epitome of elegance.

In contrast, brightly coloured, solid, shiny embroidery almost entirely covers the straight sleeves on this blouse. There is no finesse in the design, no great skill demonstrated by the embroiderer but there is obvious delight in the abundance of colour and in the scale and profusion of the blossoms. The silk is barely twisted, its fibres lying almost parallel, and so it forms a very reflective surface. Yellow silk has been used to attach the sleeve to its separate cuff and yellow is picked up again as a highlight in the deep border of machine embroidery that forms the final section.
Bibliographic references
  • Crill R, Wearden JM, Wilson V, Victoria and Albert Museum. Dress in Detail from around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002. pp.26, 66
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.
Collection
Accession number
T.29A-1958

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Record createdDecember 30, 2003
Record URL
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