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Waistcoat

1870-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Solid spirals of golden silk decorate the neck of this waistcoat which is made from black felt. Narrow strips of black silk velvet bind the armholes, the neck and the upper part of the front opening. It is double-breasted and can be fastened to the left or to the right, although most surviving photographs of this type of garment being worn show it fastened right over left. When fastened this way the full effect of the dense embroidery can be seen.

The silk thread, which has faded slightly, was originally bright orange with small details worked in green. If fastened the other way--left over right--a different, less dense pattern is revealed which includes a series of narrow lines worked over wide strips of applied black silk velvet. The delicacy of the embroidered lines allows the velvet pile to show and is in sharp contrast to the strength that would have been required to take the silk thread through three layers of fabric: velvet, felt and the lining of cotton canvas.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woollen felt, with applied silk velvet embroidered with silk
Brief description
Man's embroidered waistcoat, 1870-1899, French
Physical description
Man's waistcoat of black woollen felt with applied black silk velvet embroidered with yellow silk. It is double-breasted and could be fastened either to the left or the right.
Dimensions
  • Length: 62.2cm (Note: measurement converted from department register )
  • Width: 33cm (across shoulders) (Note: measurement converted from department register )
Credit line
Given by Mrs Goetze
Subject depicted
Summary
Solid spirals of golden silk decorate the neck of this waistcoat which is made from black felt. Narrow strips of black silk velvet bind the armholes, the neck and the upper part of the front opening. It is double-breasted and can be fastened to the left or to the right, although most surviving photographs of this type of garment being worn show it fastened right over left. When fastened this way the full effect of the dense embroidery can be seen.

The silk thread, which has faded slightly, was originally bright orange with small details worked in green. If fastened the other way--left over right--a different, less dense pattern is revealed which includes a series of narrow lines worked over wide strips of applied black silk velvet. The delicacy of the embroidered lines allows the velvet pile to show and is in sharp contrast to the strength that would have been required to take the silk thread through three layers of fabric: velvet, felt and the lining of cotton canvas.
Bibliographic reference
Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002. 224 p., ill. ISBN 09781851773787. p. 16
Collection
Accession number
T.25-1945

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Record createdDecember 29, 2003
Record URL
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