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Blouse

1800-1830 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Woven silk and woven silk brocaded with silk and metal thread faced with printed cotton and with woven silk, with an added border of woven silk and metal thread and trimmed with silk and metal thread cord.
Panel of purple silk [purple warp and red weft] forms the centre back, goes over the shoulders [no seams] and ends just below the collar bone. The same silk is used for almost triangular panels down either side at the back, a narrow rectangular panel going over the shoulders and one panel per long, wide sleeve. There is a triangular gusset under the arm made from printed cotton and the same fabric is used as a narrow facing for the side slits. This gusset has a red ground with boteh within leaves and flowerheads in green, yellow and light blue. The neck is faced with a narrow piece of red and green checked silk. The centre front panel is brocaded with silk and metal thread. Small pieces of the same fabric have been used to add width and flare at the sides [badly pieced and the pattern is badly disrupted]. This fabric is purple satin with three offset rows of a tall, stylized floral sprig: pair of indented leaves, pair of solid leaves, central carnation with white and pink petals with 2 buds, pair of pink and green diagonal carnations topped by a large carnation with either pink or white petals. Three small gold leaves form a motif which is scattered across the ground. The metal thread is silver strip open S-wound on a yellow silk core.
There is a woven band with an inscription across the top of this panel: the lettering is in a white cartouche, two are the correct way round and two are reversed.
There is an added silk border across the front bottom. This is not bias-cut and has one selvedge and one rolled edge: yellow ground with a thin dark meander linking a blue flower and a diagonal red one, with a green peacock.
The blouse fastens at the neck with a black cord loop on the left and a solid button with part of a silver metal thread outer layer on the right. The neck is small and round with a long slit. There is black silk cord around the neck and black and silver thread braid around the slit.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
cotton yarn, silk thread, metal thread, weaving, printing, sewing
Brief description
A blouse with silk and metal threads, Iran, first half 19th century
Physical description
Woven silk and woven silk brocaded with silk and metal thread faced with printed cotton and with woven silk, with an added border of woven silk and metal thread and trimmed with silk and metal thread cord.
Panel of purple silk [purple warp and red weft] forms the centre back, goes over the shoulders [no seams] and ends just below the collar bone. The same silk is used for almost triangular panels down either side at the back, a narrow rectangular panel going over the shoulders and one panel per long, wide sleeve. There is a triangular gusset under the arm made from printed cotton and the same fabric is used as a narrow facing for the side slits. This gusset has a red ground with boteh within leaves and flowerheads in green, yellow and light blue. The neck is faced with a narrow piece of red and green checked silk. The centre front panel is brocaded with silk and metal thread. Small pieces of the same fabric have been used to add width and flare at the sides [badly pieced and the pattern is badly disrupted]. This fabric is purple satin with three offset rows of a tall, stylized floral sprig: pair of indented leaves, pair of solid leaves, central carnation with white and pink petals with 2 buds, pair of pink and green diagonal carnations topped by a large carnation with either pink or white petals. Three small gold leaves form a motif which is scattered across the ground. The metal thread is silver strip open S-wound on a yellow silk core.
There is a woven band with an inscription across the top of this panel: the lettering is in a white cartouche, two are the correct way round and two are reversed.
There is an added silk border across the front bottom. This is not bias-cut and has one selvedge and one rolled edge: yellow ground with a thin dark meander linking a blue flower and a diagonal red one, with a green peacock.
The blouse fastens at the neck with a black cord loop on the left and a solid button with part of a silver metal thread outer layer on the right. The neck is small and round with a long slit. There is black silk cord around the neck and black and silver thread braid around the slit.
Dimensions
  • Length: 78.5cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 147cm
Marks and inscriptions
(loom end band with woven inscription: 'Ne'mat Ullah' (God's blessing), presumably the weaver's name, in a repeat of alternatly correct and reverse versions. The band appears across the 'chest' of the blouse and is interrupted by the neck opening.)
Production
printed cotton is from Russia.
Bibliographic reference
Baker, Patricia, L. Islamic Textiles, London: British Museum Press, 1995. 192p., ill. ISBN 0-7141-2522-9. Fig p. 128. Illustrated in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker, V&A Publishing 2010, fig.8 page 22.
Collection
Accession number
T.333-1920

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Record createdDecember 17, 2003
Record URL
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