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Shawl

1850s (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This English shawl combines machine-made net with applied flower sprigs worked in coloured silk bobbin lace. It may possibly be the 'chromatic silk berthe' J. Rawlings designed for W. L. Gill of Colyton, Devon. That shawl appeared at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London.

Black lace became very fashionable from about the 1850s. The trend was reinforced by the Empress Eugénie of France, who loved wearing lace and particularly favoured black. Black silk bobbin lace was a major part of production in northern France and an important industry in Spain. Other countries developed machine-made lace to meet demand. Colour, often in combination with black, became a feature of both handmade and machine-made lace in the 1850s and 1860s.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Coloured silk bobbin lace applied to machine-made net
Brief description
Triangular shawl of black silk machine net with applied flowers of coloured bobbin lace, English, mid 19th c
Physical description
Triangular shawl with sprigs of multi-coloured silk bobbin lace applied onto a black machine-made hexagonal mesh (net) ground. The apex is filled with seven large sprays of roses and other flowers, and along two sides are smaller sprays with a slightly-scalloped border of yellow looped pattern. The remaining space is scattered with blossoms. The sprigs are finely worked and have "swing" and other fillings.
Dimensions
  • Longest edge length: 255cm
  • Each shorter edge length: 179cm
Summary
This English shawl combines machine-made net with applied flower sprigs worked in coloured silk bobbin lace. It may possibly be the 'chromatic silk berthe' J. Rawlings designed for W. L. Gill of Colyton, Devon. That shawl appeared at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London.

Black lace became very fashionable from about the 1850s. The trend was reinforced by the Empress Eugénie of France, who loved wearing lace and particularly favoured black. Black silk bobbin lace was a major part of production in northern France and an important industry in Spain. Other countries developed machine-made lace to meet demand. Colour, often in combination with black, became a feature of both handmade and machine-made lace in the 1850s and 1860s.
Bibliographic reference
Santina M. Levey, Lace: a History, 1983, pl. 448 Clare Browne, Lace from the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2004, p. 25, pl. 76
Collection
Accession number
T.148-1911

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Record createdDecember 17, 2003
Record URL
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