Cap thumbnail 1
Cap thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Cap

ca. 1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The French town of Caen specialised in coloured silk lace. This cap with lappets may have been made there. Its combination of black and coloured lace is typical of handmade and machine-made laces in the 1850s and 1860s.

Black lace became very fashionable from about the 1850s. The trend was reinforced by the Empress Eugénie of France, who loved wearing lace and particularly favoured black. Black silk bobbin lace was a major part of production in northern France and an important industry in Spain. The machine-made lace industry also developed to meet demand. Much of the machine lace that survives from the 19th century is black in imitation of French hand-made bobbin lace. Some of it is of very high quality and design.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk bobbin lace with applied silk
Brief description
Cap of silk bobbin lace, possibly Caen, France, about 1860
Physical description
Bobbin lace flat cap. Made in one piece with long lappets falling on either side of the diamond-shaped headpiece. Bobbin lace in the Chantilly technique worked with black grenadine silk in twist net, half and honeycomb stitches. Clusters of flower-heads on the crown of the headpiece and at the centres and ends of the lappets are worked in dense clothstitch in bright blue silk with yellow centres.
Dimensions
  • Length: 1200mm
  • Width: 232mm
  • Width: 11.5in
  • Length: 49in
Summary
The French town of Caen specialised in coloured silk lace. This cap with lappets may have been made there. Its combination of black and coloured lace is typical of handmade and machine-made laces in the 1850s and 1860s.

Black lace became very fashionable from about the 1850s. The trend was reinforced by the Empress Eugénie of France, who loved wearing lace and particularly favoured black. Black silk bobbin lace was a major part of production in northern France and an important industry in Spain. The machine-made lace industry also developed to meet demand. Much of the machine lace that survives from the 19th century is black in imitation of French hand-made bobbin lace. Some of it is of very high quality and design.
Bibliographic references
  • Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion, edited by Lesley Ellis Miller and Ana Cabrera Lafuente with Claire Allen-Johnstone, Thames and Hudson Ltd. in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, United Kingdom, 2021, p. 254
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
T.217-1982

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Record createdDecember 17, 2003
Record URL
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