Bobbin lace linen stole with a net ground, Buckinghamshire, England, 1820-1830

Long rectangular bobbin lace linen stole with the field scattered with flowerheads and dots. Border of leaning flower sprigs. Bobbin-made net ground. Made from three joined strips each 4.875 inches (9.7 cm) wide with a 4.5 inch (9 cm) wide border worked straight and gathered to fit round the corners.

Twist-net ground, the central strips are each decorated with four rows of leaf motifs, worked in cloth stitch with open-work centres, and outlined with a gimp thread. The ground is scattered with point d'esprit. The border is filled with stylised rose-sprays alternating with smaller floral motifs. The outer wavy edge has small bud motifs extending into each rounded vandyke.

The pattern is worked in cloth stitch outlined with a gimp thread, and the flower-heads and leaves have open-work centres, the smaller sprays have a bar and wheat-ear filling and a small area of fancy mesh.

This stole dates from an interesting period in the English lace industry. The industry had benefited from the Napoleonic wars (1796-1815). Trade barriers deprived the French producers of important English custom and provided a boost for English lacemakers. However, the English lace industry declined from about 1815 until the mid 1820s. Lacemaking in the Midland counties then began to prosper again, resulting in pieces like this stole. It has a handmade net ground, even though machine-made net was well-established by this time.

During the 1820s and 1830s lace on male dress fell out of fashion. However, it played a larger part in women's dress. The growing fullness in skirts and sleeves allowed more scope for its use. So too did the popularity of veils and overdresses made entirely from lace.

T.245-1983