Handkerchief, woven cotton with supplemental weft (jamdani), Jais, c.1875; Textiles; Accessories

Handkerchief, woven cotton with supplemental weft (jamdani). Floral design on outside border, Prince of Wales heraldic badge in centre. On other border, three words woven in blue cotton read 'JAIS, OUDH, INDIA'. Around the border a woven inscription in Persian script.

Object was offered on loan from Major F. Barrow in 1889, and was never collected. Handwritten note from Major Barrow reads "Constitutional Club, Northumberland Avenue, 20/8/89 / Dear Sir, I called yesterday at the Museum and was sorry to miss you. I am off to Scotland tomorrow for 5 or 6 weeks. Please keep the muslin handkerchief till then: even if you do not care to accept it as a loan for a longer period. I should like to leave it with you for two years by which time I shall be back in England for good, as shall then retire from the service. I send translations [two] of the verses on the handkerchief: please return the enclosed and [illegible] F. Barrow, Major SFC / Letters to the Club will always find me.'

The city of Jais near Lucknow was renowned for exquisite jamdani work, in which designs are created by the meticulous placement of extra threads while weaving. Master weavers specialised in incorporating text that praised their patrons. The Persian poetry woven around the Prince of Wales’s heraldic badge at the centre of this handkerchief commemorates his visit to India in 1875.

IS.54-2002