Qipao, woman's dress, yellow plain weave silk; emboidering with polychrome threads, China, 1920s

Woman's dress (qipao in Mandarin or cheongsam in Cantonese) made from lightweight, plain weave yellow silk. It closes to the side and has a shallow stnad-up collar. The dress is cut along traditional lines with no seams across the top of the shoulders. The closure line is fairly straight and is fastened with press-studs, some missing, to just below waist level. There are no slits at the side.
The sleeves are wide and shaped at the cuff end. The cuffs themselves are made from extra sections of yellow silk. The embroidery design does not match across the cuff sewing line. The soft collarband fastens to the side and is cut off at an angle. It is sewn closed. The garment could not be put on unless this sewing line was cut.
The garment is faced throughout with yellow silk and these facings are all sewn down. The section beneath the overlap echoes the shape of the outside closure.
The dress isdecorated with embroidered flower sprays in pink and lilac on both back and front, sleeves and collarband.

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Mrs Garrett's card reads: purchased 20 dollars. Whyndham St.

This dress is an early example of the Chinese style known as a cheongsam or qipao. The style was popularized in the mid- to late-1920s when women in China began to play a greater role in public life. One of the main features of this type of dress is the intricate knot and loop fastenings.

FE.34-1995