Evening Coat
1939 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This long evening coat made of red grosgrain was designed by Elsa Schiaparelli for her 1939 Summer collection. It is floor length with a straight front and wide self-faced edges, and has a narrow band collar and wide straight sleeves and padded shoulders. The back of the coat is fitted as far as the waist where it becomes a wide inverted pleat extending into a train. A button, with a small mother of pearl flower centre, is stitched at the top of the pleat. Half way down the train is a 'fleur de lys'-shaped loop, which when attached to the button, holds the train up to give a bustle effect.
This coat is an example of the historicism which prevailed in fashion at the end of the 1930s, when fashion designers reinterprated the shapes of the leg-of-mutton shoulders and bustles of the 1880s. For Schiaparelli, cut was of paramount importance and her silhouettes were frequently described as having a strict neatness with angles replacing feminine curves. This evening coat, almost like a cardinal's robe, displays modern and forceful lines and a stylised simplicity. It is a striking example of Schiaparelli's calculated and balanced extravagance.
This coat is an example of the historicism which prevailed in fashion at the end of the 1930s, when fashion designers reinterprated the shapes of the leg-of-mutton shoulders and bustles of the 1880s. For Schiaparelli, cut was of paramount importance and her silhouettes were frequently described as having a strict neatness with angles replacing feminine curves. This evening coat, almost like a cardinal's robe, displays modern and forceful lines and a stylised simplicity. It is a striking example of Schiaparelli's calculated and balanced extravagance.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silk grosgrain, lined in silk, metal, mother of pearl |
| Brief description | Long evening coat made of silk grosgrain, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, Paris, 1939 |
| Physical description | Long evening coat made of red silk grosgrain. It is floor length with a straight front and wide self-faced edges, and has a narrow band collar and wide straight sleeves with a slightly pleated head into padded shoulders. The back of the coat is seamed to fit as far as the waist where it becomes two wide cross cut panels forming a wide inverted pleat extending into a train. A button, covered with matching silk, bound with white metal and a small mother of pearl flower central is stitched at the top of the pleat. Half way down the train is a self material 'fleur de lys' shaped loop which when attached to the button loops the train shifts up in a trained bustle effect. The coat is lined with a slightly darker silk. |
| Style | |
| Production type | Haute couture |
| Marks and inscriptions |
|
| Credit line | Given by Madame Elsa Schiaparelli |
| Production | Summer 1939 |
| Summary | This long evening coat made of red grosgrain was designed by Elsa Schiaparelli for her 1939 Summer collection. It is floor length with a straight front and wide self-faced edges, and has a narrow band collar and wide straight sleeves and padded shoulders. The back of the coat is fitted as far as the waist where it becomes a wide inverted pleat extending into a train. A button, with a small mother of pearl flower centre, is stitched at the top of the pleat. Half way down the train is a 'fleur de lys'-shaped loop, which when attached to the button, holds the train up to give a bustle effect. This coat is an example of the historicism which prevailed in fashion at the end of the 1930s, when fashion designers reinterprated the shapes of the leg-of-mutton shoulders and bustles of the 1880s. For Schiaparelli, cut was of paramount importance and her silhouettes were frequently described as having a strict neatness with angles replacing feminine curves. This evening coat, almost like a cardinal's robe, displays modern and forceful lines and a stylised simplicity. It is a striking example of Schiaparelli's calculated and balanced extravagance. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.52-1965 |
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| Record created | November 13, 2003 |
| Record URL |
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