Not currently on display at the V&A

Suit

1969 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jackets of this style - tailored, hip-length, and with a standing collar and long placket of buttons - became popular in places including Europe in the late 1960s. These garments were widely referred to as 'Nehru jackets' as they take inspiration from garments worn by Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. Nehru wore the archkan, a knee length coat and the more informal bundi waistcoat, both of which had standing collars and long button plackets. Those who wore 'Nehru jackets' outside of India in the 'Swinging Sixties' tended to be expressing an interest in breaking away from traditions, sartorial and otherwise. This helps to explain why 'Nehru jackets' were often made from luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet that were colourful and/or patterned, rather than the plainer materials that had long been favoured for menswear by many cultures. The style had its heyday in the late 1960s but was revived in the 1980s and 1990s in places including Britain and the United States.

This 'Nehru jacket' came with trousers in matching charcoal grey wool twill. The jacket's buttons are concealed by a fly front and a daring purple satin lining belies the sober grey exterior.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
Materials and techniques
Wool twill with a satin lining
Brief description
Suit, 'Nehru jacket' and trousers, menswear ensemle, wool twill, retailed by Moss Bros, Great Britain, 1969
Physical description
Charcoal grey wool twill suit of 'Nehru jacket' and trousers.
Gallery label
This suit is striking in that it is totally unadorned; even the jacket buttons are concealed by a fly front. The stand-up Nehru style collar became fashionable in the mid 1960s. A daring purple satin lining belies the sober grey exterior.(1997)
Credit line
Given by Mr R. Hughes
Object history
Registered File number 1990/671.
Summary
Jackets of this style - tailored, hip-length, and with a standing collar and long placket of buttons - became popular in places including Europe in the late 1960s. These garments were widely referred to as 'Nehru jackets' as they take inspiration from garments worn by Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. Nehru wore the archkan, a knee length coat and the more informal bundi waistcoat, both of which had standing collars and long button plackets. Those who wore 'Nehru jackets' outside of India in the 'Swinging Sixties' tended to be expressing an interest in breaking away from traditions, sartorial and otherwise. This helps to explain why 'Nehru jackets' were often made from luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet that were colourful and/or patterned, rather than the plainer materials that had long been favoured for menswear by many cultures. The style had its heyday in the late 1960s but was revived in the 1980s and 1990s in places including Britain and the United States.

This 'Nehru jacket' came with trousers in matching charcoal grey wool twill. The jacket's buttons are concealed by a fly front and a daring purple satin lining belies the sober grey exterior.
Bibliographic reference
De La Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947-1997. London: V&A Publications, 1997. pp 49 & 50.
Collection
Accession number
T.271&A-1990

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Record createdSeptember 9, 2003
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