Not currently on display at the V&A

Head Dress

1800-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The tantour, or ‘horn’, as it was generally known by European travellers at the time, was the most distinctive element in the dress of Druze women in Syria in the 19th century. It was worn on the top of the head, sometimes with a diaphanous white veil attached to the top, and was a compulsory element of the bridal costume; its use was strictly limited to married women. By the end of the century it had been largely replaced by the tarboosh, a smaller felt cap with a silver disc on the crown. It has now been revived as part of the national costume of Lebanon.

Tantours are usually richly decorated with symbolic designs intended to protect or benefit the wearer. The design on the front of this example is a stylised cypress tree with a Greek cross at the top. Although Maronite Christian women are also thought to have worn the tantour before the wars of the mid-19th century, the presence of a cross does not necessarily indicate Christian ownership. The Druze religion accommodated many ideas which would have been anathema to orthodox Moslems.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Sheet silver with chasing and ring punching, with dark red cotton cord
Brief description
Conical silver head dress (tantour) with three very long red cotton cords with large tassels, Lebanon, 1800-1899.
Physical description
Hollow conical head dress made from sheet silver with a flat top and open base. The body is entirely decorated with chased patterns in three vertical designs. The front design is a stylised Cypress tree with a Greek cross at the top, and the other two are stylised branches. There are horizontal bands of chevrons round the base, and a segmented circle on the flat top. There are three loose suspension rings riveted to the body, just above the top band of chevrons, one at each side and one at the back. Three long red plaited cotton cords are threaded through the suspension rings and tied together at the back. Each has plaited silver wire fittings at the end holding a large tassel of twisted cord.

Two seperate small blue tassels with green ribbon are associated with the piece (seperate, but unnumbered).

Possibly for a wedding ceremony.
Dimensions
  • Overall (not including cords and tassels) length: 52.5cm
  • Maximum at base of conic diameter: 7.2cm
Credit line
Gift of the Rev. Canon Cyril Fletcher Grant
Production
Druze?
Subjects depicted
Summary
The tantour, or ‘horn’, as it was generally known by European travellers at the time, was the most distinctive element in the dress of Druze women in Syria in the 19th century. It was worn on the top of the head, sometimes with a diaphanous white veil attached to the top, and was a compulsory element of the bridal costume; its use was strictly limited to married women. By the end of the century it had been largely replaced by the tarboosh, a smaller felt cap with a silver disc on the crown. It has now been revived as part of the national costume of Lebanon.

Tantours are usually richly decorated with symbolic designs intended to protect or benefit the wearer. The design on the front of this example is a stylised cypress tree with a Greek cross at the top. Although Maronite Christian women are also thought to have worn the tantour before the wars of the mid-19th century, the presence of a cross does not necessarily indicate Christian ownership. The Druze religion accommodated many ideas which would have been anathema to orthodox Moslems.
Bibliographic reference
For examples, see: Rajab, Jehan. ‘Palestinian Costume’, Routledge, 1989, ISBN 978-0710302830, pp. 122-3. Kalter, Johannes. ‘The Arts and Crafts of Syria’, Thames & Hudson Ltd, 1993, ISBN 978-0500974018, pp.167-8.
Collection
Accession number
M.97-1916

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Record createdApril 16, 2003
Record URL
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