Silver-gilt plated metal hinged diadem (Stolos) set with red and blue pastes, with long chain pendants and coral beads, Greece, 1860-1870

Diadem of cast plaques of metal which have been silver-plated and then gilded. The diadem consists of a row of eleven rectangular plaques, hinged together, each with an elaborate projection like a stylised palmette on the upper edge. The projection on the central plaque has been extended with an added rosette, so that it is higher than the others. At either end of the row there is a longer rectangular plaque with a loose ring threaded through a loop on its outer edge, for fastening. There is a hook on the back of the rosette above the central plaque. All the plaques are decorated with an elaborate cast imitation filigree pattern, and set with red and turquoise pastes. The four inner plaques on each side have a coral bead at the top, and the rosette above the central plaque is set with a green paste, and has coral beads hanging from holes round its edge (most missing). There are two loops attached to the lower edge of each plaque, except the two outermost, from which hang loop-in-loop chains and leaf-shaped pendants. The four chains at each end, which hang down at the sides of the face, are much longer than the others. All the chains have small coral beads at the ends.

A diadem, or crown, was one of the most important pieces of bridal jewellery for a Greek woman. Unlike most of the other jewellery she wore on that day it was only worn at marriage. Its form was a direct descendant of the imperial crowns of Byzantium, and it often had pendants across the forehead and hanging down at the sides of the face. The diadems of Pogoni, in Epirus, are the best known, but the origin of this piece was not recorded when it was acquired as an example of Greek traditional jewellery.

It was bought for £2 15s. at the International Exhibition, London, in 1872, when it was described as a necklace.

1480-1873