Furnishing Fabric thumbnail 1
On display
Image of Gallery in South Kensington

Furnishing Fabric

1850-1851 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This inexpensive fabric was made to be used for curtains and upholstery. The fabric was made to provide a cheap alternative to silk damask, the type of furnishing textile favoured by the middle and upper class for their homes. Made in the Yorkshire factory of Ackroyds of Halifax, this inexpensive textile was made from a mixture of cottons and worsted yarns woven in their bleached white state by power-activated jacquard loom. The finished patterned fabric was dyed green, with the ground (in worsted) absorbing most colour and the pattern (in cotton) resisting the dye to remain white.

The jacquard loom attachment, which was introduced into the damask trade of Halifax in 1827, provided a versatile, quicker and cheaper form of weaving than had been available previously. The search to cut costs even further saw the introduction of power, thus cutting out the need for staff. Increasing the number of looms power-driven together further reduced costs, and by the mid-19th century large weaving factories were being developed throughout the north of England. Consequently the use of the jacquard loom has been cited as one of the main causes of Victorian poverty and urban decay.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Jacquard-woven cotton and wool damask, satin, overdyed
Brief description
Furnishing fabric of Jacquard-woven cotton and wool damask, manufactured by Ackroyds, Halifax, 1850-1851
Physical description
Furnishing fabric of cotton and wool Jacquard-woven damask on a wool ground. With a design of formal ornamental scrolls forming cartouches, and within each one is a stylised flower with three leaves with slightly differing designs in alternate rows. The pattern is in white cotton on a green wool ground. The ground is woven in a weft-faced satin, while the pattern is shaded by the use of several different weaves. There are four point repeats in the width and a complete repeat in the length. Overdyed after weaving.
Dimensions
  • Length: 127cm
  • Width: 62.2cm
  • Width: 24in
  • Loom length: 50in
  • Repeat width: 6.5in
  • Repeat length: 17in
need to be measured
Marks and inscriptions
'Cotton & Worsted / dyed in the piece / Wove by Powerloom' (Label pinned to the corner)
Gallery label
(27/03/2003)
British Galleries:
This is a rare surviving example of inexpensive furnishing fabric dating from the middle of the 19th century. The fabric reproduces the effects of expensive silk damask using cheaper cotton and worsted yarns. Such fabrics provided a sense of luxury in more modest homes.
Object history
Manufactured by the firm of Ackroyds, Halifax, West Yorkshire
Summary
This inexpensive fabric was made to be used for curtains and upholstery. The fabric was made to provide a cheap alternative to silk damask, the type of furnishing textile favoured by the middle and upper class for their homes. Made in the Yorkshire factory of Ackroyds of Halifax, this inexpensive textile was made from a mixture of cottons and worsted yarns woven in their bleached white state by power-activated jacquard loom. The finished patterned fabric was dyed green, with the ground (in worsted) absorbing most colour and the pattern (in cotton) resisting the dye to remain white.

The jacquard loom attachment, which was introduced into the damask trade of Halifax in 1827, provided a versatile, quicker and cheaper form of weaving than had been available previously. The search to cut costs even further saw the introduction of power, thus cutting out the need for staff. Increasing the number of looms power-driven together further reduced costs, and by the mid-19th century large weaving factories were being developed throughout the north of England. Consequently the use of the jacquard loom has been cited as one of the main causes of Victorian poverty and urban decay.
Other number
AP.173:9 - Previous number
Collection
Accession number
T.27-1959

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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