Dress Fabric
1749 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Object Type
This fabric, intended for ladies' gowns, is a brocaded silk tobine. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively. The additional effect which makes this silk a tobine is the pattern in the ground, created with an extra warp which in some fabrics is of contrasting colour but in this case is the same colour as the ground.
People
The Mr Vautier who commissioned the design for this silk and is named on it in Anna Maria Garthwaite's inscription is probably Daniel Vautier, one of at least three generations of Huguenot weavers of the same name, who lived in Steward Street, Spitalfields. The Vautier family originally came from Luneray in Normandy, France, and many were involved in the English silk industry in both London and Canterbury. The Daniel Vautier probably responsible for this silk was a master weaver with a number of journeyman weavers in his employment.
This fabric, intended for ladies' gowns, is a brocaded silk tobine. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively. The additional effect which makes this silk a tobine is the pattern in the ground, created with an extra warp which in some fabrics is of contrasting colour but in this case is the same colour as the ground.
People
The Mr Vautier who commissioned the design for this silk and is named on it in Anna Maria Garthwaite's inscription is probably Daniel Vautier, one of at least three generations of Huguenot weavers of the same name, who lived in Steward Street, Spitalfields. The Vautier family originally came from Luneray in Normandy, France, and many were involved in the English silk industry in both London and Canterbury. The Daniel Vautier probably responsible for this silk was a master weaver with a number of journeyman weavers in his employment.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Brocaded silk tobine |
| Brief description | Dress fabric, brocaded silk, designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, from design 5987.1, woven in Spitalfields, London, England, 1749. |
| Physical description | The silk has a cream ground elaborately textured with a self-coloured pattern including flowers and chequered meandering trails. The brocaded pattern has a straight repeat of 26". It depicts scattered flower sprays in shades of pink, blue, purple, yellow, brown and green; the flowers include lilies, auricula, convolvulus and sweet peas. The colours on the silk are slightly different from those on the original design. The panel has been taken from a dress, with two seams and evidence of pleating at the top. It has just over one complete repeat of the pattern, and is complete selvedge to selvedge. The selvedge is cream, .25 " wide. The colours are very fresh. |
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| Gallery label |
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| Object history | Designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite (born in Grantham, Lincolnshire, 1690, died in London, 1763). Woven in Spitalfields, London, after the design 5987.1, dated March 1 1749, for the master weaver Mr Vautier. Purchased. Registered File number 1996/627. |
| Production | Woven in Spitalfields, London |
| Subject depicted | |
| Summary | Object Type This fabric, intended for ladies' gowns, is a brocaded silk tobine. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively. The additional effect which makes this silk a tobine is the pattern in the ground, created with an extra warp which in some fabrics is of contrasting colour but in this case is the same colour as the ground. People The Mr Vautier who commissioned the design for this silk and is named on it in Anna Maria Garthwaite's inscription is probably Daniel Vautier, one of at least three generations of Huguenot weavers of the same name, who lived in Steward Street, Spitalfields. The Vautier family originally came from Luneray in Normandy, France, and many were involved in the English silk industry in both London and Canterbury. The Daniel Vautier probably responsible for this silk was a master weaver with a number of journeyman weavers in his employment. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.192-1996 |
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| Record created | March 27, 2003 |
| Record URL |
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