Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
On display
Image of Gallery in South Kensington

Earring

1860-1869 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
Each earring is formed of a convex pierced rosette with a pearl in the centre. Below the rosette is fixed a bar set with four pearls and hung with pearl-tipped pendants. The design derives from a Byzantine type.

People
The firm of Castellani was founded in Rome by Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794-1865). In the mid-1820s Castellani won the patronage of the distinguished archaeologist Michelangelo Caetani, later Duke of Sermoneta. In 1851 Caetani inspired Castellani and his sons Alessandro (1823-1883) and Augusto (1829-1914) to concentrate on jewellery based on classical models.

Design & Designing
Emily, Dowager Countess of Crawford, wrote in 1921, when she presented this necklace to the V&A, together with a wreath and a pair of earrings (also on display), that they had been made 'from the design of Michelangelo, Duke of Sermoneta, in conjunction with Castellani', and she gave W. W. Watts, Keeper of Metalwork, to understand that they had been a wedding gift. As Emily Bootle-Wilbraham, in 1869 she had married James, Lord Lindsay, later 26th Earl of Crawford.

However, the jewellery historian Geoffrey Munn has pointed out that Michelangelo Caetani was blind from 1865. If it is true that the jewellery was a wedding gift and that Caetani had some influence on the design, the simplest explanation may be that the jewellery given to Emily in 1869 was a further development of a design conceived earlier by Caetani and Castellani.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Gold, pierced and mounted with pearls
Brief description
Pair of gold and pearl earrings by Castellani, Rome, 1860-9
Dimensions
  • Height: 3.81cm
  • Width: 2cm
  • Depth: 0.3cm
Dimensions checked: Measured; 22/01/1999 by sf
Marks and inscriptions
Applied mark of Castellani: two addorsed Cs
Gallery label
(27/03/2003)
British Galleries:
JEWELLERY

1860-1869

Enthusiasm for the arts of the classical world led to a fashion in Britain for jewellery based on archaeological models. The Italian firm of Castellani became celebrated for creating jewellery in this style. The tiara was inspired by an Etruscan wreath (4th century BC) and the necklace by a Roman necklace (2nd or 3rd century AD). The pearl and gold earrings look like Byzantine jewellery. The necklace and tiara imitate early examples held in the British Museum.
Credit line
Given by Emily, Dowager Countess of Crawford
Object history
Made in Rome by the firm of Castellani (active about 1814-1930)
Summary
Object Type
Each earring is formed of a convex pierced rosette with a pearl in the centre. Below the rosette is fixed a bar set with four pearls and hung with pearl-tipped pendants. The design derives from a Byzantine type.

People
The firm of Castellani was founded in Rome by Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794-1865). In the mid-1820s Castellani won the patronage of the distinguished archaeologist Michelangelo Caetani, later Duke of Sermoneta. In 1851 Caetani inspired Castellani and his sons Alessandro (1823-1883) and Augusto (1829-1914) to concentrate on jewellery based on classical models.

Design & Designing
Emily, Dowager Countess of Crawford, wrote in 1921, when she presented this necklace to the V&A, together with a wreath and a pair of earrings (also on display), that they had been made 'from the design of Michelangelo, Duke of Sermoneta, in conjunction with Castellani', and she gave W. W. Watts, Keeper of Metalwork, to understand that they had been a wedding gift. As Emily Bootle-Wilbraham, in 1869 she had married James, Lord Lindsay, later 26th Earl of Crawford.

However, the jewellery historian Geoffrey Munn has pointed out that Michelangelo Caetani was blind from 1865. If it is true that the jewellery was a wedding gift and that Caetani had some influence on the design, the simplest explanation may be that the jewellery given to Emily in 1869 was a further development of a design conceived earlier by Caetani and Castellani.
Collection
Accession number
M.64&A-1921

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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