Necklace thumbnail 1
Necklace thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
British Galleries, Room 125, Edwin and Susan Davies Gallery

Necklace

1901-1902 (hallmarked)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Object Type
In the early 1900s, C.R. Ashbee designed about 12 peacock brooches and pendants.

People
C.R. Ashbee was one of the earliest Arts and Crafts designers of jewellery, his first jewels dating from 1890. He contributed one of the key points, that the value of jewellery lay in its design, not in the monetary value of the materials used. Although this peacock jewel is one of his more sumptuous creations, it would have been modest in price compared with the heavy diamond-set jewellery of its day. Ashbee admired the Renaissance of the 15th century when the 'arts and crafts were one and indivisible': Renaissance artists were goldsmiths as well as painters, sculptors or architects. In 1898 he published a translation of the two treatises of Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) on goldsmithing and sculpture.

Subject
In 1892 Ashbee wrote on the flyleaf of a bookbinding which D.S. MacColl designed for him that it showed: 'the poor peacock of the Arts and Crafts with its proud tail exploding in fireworks'. The choice of the peacock seems to have been primarily because it was a bold, proud, bird which stood out against a drab and hostile world.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silver and gold, set with blister pearls, diamond sparks and a demantoid garnet for the eye, with three pendent pearls
Brief Description
Jewellery, England. Silver and gold, set with pearls and diamond sparks. Designed by C. R. Ashbee. English; London, 1901.
Dimensions
  • Pendant height: 11cm
  • Pendant width: 7cm
  • Depth: 1cm
Marks and Inscriptions
London hallmarks for 1901-02
Gallery Label
British Galleries: In jewellery, Arts and Crafts designers stressed the importance of colour, symbolism and design, rather than making work dominated by expensive gemstones. C.R. Ashbee was one of the first members of the movement to design jewels: his earliest work dates from 1890.(27/03/2003)
Object history
Designed by Charles Robert Ashbee (born in Isleworth, near London, 1863, died in Godden Green, Kent, 1942) in 1901; made by the Guild of Handicraft Ltd. at Essex House, London



Bears Dutch import marks and was probably exported to The Netherlands
Summary
Object Type
In the early 1900s, C.R. Ashbee designed about 12 peacock brooches and pendants.

People
C.R. Ashbee was one of the earliest Arts and Crafts designers of jewellery, his first jewels dating from 1890. He contributed one of the key points, that the value of jewellery lay in its design, not in the monetary value of the materials used. Although this peacock jewel is one of his more sumptuous creations, it would have been modest in price compared with the heavy diamond-set jewellery of its day. Ashbee admired the Renaissance of the 15th century when the 'arts and crafts were one and indivisible': Renaissance artists were goldsmiths as well as painters, sculptors or architects. In 1898 he published a translation of the two treatises of Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) on goldsmithing and sculpture.

Subject
In 1892 Ashbee wrote on the flyleaf of a bookbinding which D.S. MacColl designed for him that it showed: 'the poor peacock of the Arts and Crafts with its proud tail exploding in fireworks'. The choice of the peacock seems to have been primarily because it was a bold, proud, bird which stood out against a drab and hostile world.
Bibliographic Reference
Joyasde del Modernismo Artista a la Vanguardia. Barcelona: Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya. p. 81, no. 43. ISBN 9788480432252
Collection
Accession Number
M.23-1965

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record createdMarch 27, 2003
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