Combs and Case
1673 (dated)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
This case and combs are among the earliest surviving works of art made in Jamaica that reflect European influence. Highly prized for its colour, translucency and brilliant shine, tortoiseshell was used for furniture inlays and luxurious accessories in the 17th century. Their decorations were incised and brushed with resin, often coloured yellow to simulate gilding.
This set belongs to an intriguing group of tortoiseshell objects, including 45 combs, 26 cases and 2 caskets made in Jamaica between 1671 and 1692. Most of these objects are now in the National Institute of Jamaica. They bear a combination of European motifs and native plants such as palm, pineapple and cocoa trees.
The combs in this set are carved with tulips and sunflowers, inspired by late-17th century English embroidery. On the case are a palm tree and crops important to English trade, the sugar cane and cotton bush. The newly awarded coat-of-arms of Jamaica engraved on the other side of the case relates directly to Britain's seizure of the island from the Spanish.
Tortoiseshell objects were probably commissioned and given as gifts by English governors and their families to friends in England. In 1682, Lady Lynch, wife of governor Sir Thomas Lynch, sent one set of the combs and case to Lady Arlington, along with '400 lbs of the best white sugar from Barbados ... and some vanillas'. English sugar merchants in Jamaica signified their financial prosperity and upward mobility through these gifts to relatives and friends in England.
New research by Jade Lindo, a V&A/RCA History of Design MA student 2021-22, has determined that this case and its combs were probably made by Paul Bennett, recorded as a comb-maker in Port Royal, Jamaica in 1673. Bennett and another craftsman, Matthew Comberford worked for two decades until an earthquake in 1692 destroyed Port Royal.
This set belongs to an intriguing group of tortoiseshell objects, including 45 combs, 26 cases and 2 caskets made in Jamaica between 1671 and 1692. Most of these objects are now in the National Institute of Jamaica. They bear a combination of European motifs and native plants such as palm, pineapple and cocoa trees.
The combs in this set are carved with tulips and sunflowers, inspired by late-17th century English embroidery. On the case are a palm tree and crops important to English trade, the sugar cane and cotton bush. The newly awarded coat-of-arms of Jamaica engraved on the other side of the case relates directly to Britain's seizure of the island from the Spanish.
Tortoiseshell objects were probably commissioned and given as gifts by English governors and their families to friends in England. In 1682, Lady Lynch, wife of governor Sir Thomas Lynch, sent one set of the combs and case to Lady Arlington, along with '400 lbs of the best white sugar from Barbados ... and some vanillas'. English sugar merchants in Jamaica signified their financial prosperity and upward mobility through these gifts to relatives and friends in England.
New research by Jade Lindo, a V&A/RCA History of Design MA student 2021-22, has determined that this case and its combs were probably made by Paul Bennett, recorded as a comb-maker in Port Royal, Jamaica in 1673. Bennett and another craftsman, Matthew Comberford worked for two decades until an earthquake in 1692 destroyed Port Royal.
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Tortoiseshell combs from Jamaica
A set of two combs with a matching case in the V&A's collection belong to an intriguing group of tortoiseshell objects, made in Jamaica between 1671 and 1690 – a period of British colonial exploitation and profiteering in the Caribbean.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 3 parts.
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Materials and techniques | Tortoiseshell, resin; carved and engraved |
Brief description | Tortoiseshell comb case and two combs, engraved, Port Royal, Jamaica, dated 1673, probably made by Paul Bennett |
Physical description | Tortoiseshell case and two combs, incised and brushed with yellow resin. The combs are carved with tulips and sunflowers. The case is engraved on one side with the coat-of-arms of Jamaica, born by the representation of two indigenous persons, with 'JAMAICA 1673'. On the other side there is a palm tree, sugar cane and cotton bush. |
Dimensions |
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Marks and inscriptions | JAMAICA 1673 (Engraved on the comb case below the coat-of-arms) |
Gallery label |
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Object history | Purchased from Jane F. Thornhill for £20 in 1877. |
Historical context | See: H.M. Cundall, Early Jamaican Handicraft, (The West India Committee Circular 29th March, 1923) Frank Cundall, Tortoiseshell carving in Jamaica, in The Connoisseur, July 1925, p.154ff, and December 1929 Frank Cundall, 'Tortoiseshell - Carving: A Notable Specimen in Jamaica', 1929, National Art Library, V&A Frank Cundall, Governors of Jamaica in the 17th Century, London: The W.I. Committee, 1936 Philip Hart, "Tortoiseshell Comb Cases - A 17Th Century Jamaican Craft" (Kingston, 1963), The National Library of Jamaica Jen Cruse, Colonial Craftsmanship in Jamaica, in America in Britain XXXIX pp.18-25, (Journal of the American Museum in Bath) Evelyn Haertig, Antique Combs and Purses (Carmel, CA: Gallery Graphics, 1983) Donald F. Johnson, ‘From The Collection’, Winterthur Portfolio, 43 (2009), 313- 334 |
Summary | This case and combs are among the earliest surviving works of art made in Jamaica that reflect European influence. Highly prized for its colour, translucency and brilliant shine, tortoiseshell was used for furniture inlays and luxurious accessories in the 17th century. Their decorations were incised and brushed with resin, often coloured yellow to simulate gilding. This set belongs to an intriguing group of tortoiseshell objects, including 45 combs, 26 cases and 2 caskets made in Jamaica between 1671 and 1692. Most of these objects are now in the National Institute of Jamaica. They bear a combination of European motifs and native plants such as palm, pineapple and cocoa trees. The combs in this set are carved with tulips and sunflowers, inspired by late-17th century English embroidery. On the case are a palm tree and crops important to English trade, the sugar cane and cotton bush. The newly awarded coat-of-arms of Jamaica engraved on the other side of the case relates directly to Britain's seizure of the island from the Spanish. Tortoiseshell objects were probably commissioned and given as gifts by English governors and their families to friends in England. In 1682, Lady Lynch, wife of governor Sir Thomas Lynch, sent one set of the combs and case to Lady Arlington, along with '400 lbs of the best white sugar from Barbados ... and some vanillas'. English sugar merchants in Jamaica signified their financial prosperity and upward mobility through these gifts to relatives and friends in England. New research by Jade Lindo, a V&A/RCA History of Design MA student 2021-22, has determined that this case and its combs were probably made by Paul Bennett, recorded as a comb-maker in Port Royal, Jamaica in 1673. Bennett and another craftsman, Matthew Comberford worked for two decades until an earthquake in 1692 destroyed Port Royal. |
Collection | |
Accession number | 524 to B-1877 |
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Record created | March 27, 2003 |
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