Man's coat and waistcoat of silk/wool poplin and silk braid, Great Britain, 1775-1785

A man’s coat and waistcoat of beige poplin with a silk warp and woollen weft. The coat has a 1-inch (2.5 cm) standing collar and curving 2-piece sleeves end in cuffs 3½ inches (9 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 4¾-inch (12.2 cm) deep, below the hip set at the side back. Each front has a pocket with scalloped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back is lined with pink glazed worsted, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen, the fronts, skirts and pocket flaps with pale pink silk twill. The coat is decorated with loops of chained gimp, with a silk-covered button and tassel, all in beige silk, at one end. These are arranged singly, in a pair, in three along the left and right fronts. There are 2 loops on each cuff, 3 on each pocket flap and 3 on each side of the centre-back opening. There are 3 buttons and tassels below each pocket and 3 along the pleats. The fronts fastened with 3 hooks and eyes, 1 below the collar, 1 about 13 cm below, another about 12 cm below the second.

The waistcoat fronts are made of the beige poplin with a round neck, curving fronts and skirts reaching the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and scalloped pocket flap. The back is beige worsted twill. The waistcoat is lined with fustian the fronts faced, skirts and pocket flaps lined with pale pink silk twill. There are 13 worked buttonholes along the left front and 13 corresponding beige silk thread-covered buttons on the right front.

Part of the Gorst collection, given by Mrs Katherine Rachael Thomas

This ensemble illustrates fashionable formal dress for men in the late 1770s or early 1780s. It was probably worn during the day, for visiting friends for tea, walking in a park or shopping. The use of poplin, a silk and woollen blend, indicates it may have been made for summer wear. By the late 1770s the waistcoat ends at the top of the thigh. The skirts are narrow and fall between the side and back seam of the coat. The cut of the sleeves is quite tight and the cuffs narrow. Silk braid and tassels adorn the coat, an influence from military uniform.

T.71&A-1962