Necklace and Cross thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
British Galleries, Room 122

Necklace and Cross

1843 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
The necklace is composed of 19 enamelled quatrefoils set with garnets. The pendant cross has quatrefoil ends decorated in the same manner as the links of the necklace. In each of the angles between the arms are four small pearls surmounted by a gold fleur-de-lis.

People
The necklace and pendant were made for Louisa Burton, the second wife of the architect A. W. N. Pugin (1812-1852). Pugin's account with John Hardman & Co. of Birmingham contains an entry on 21 December 1843 for 'A Gold enamel Chain & Cross' costing £47. 15s. Louisa died eight months later.

The cross and chain became part of the large parure (set) of jewellery prepared by Pugin for his intended third bride, Helen Lumsdaine. He persuaded Helen to convert to Catholicism, but in 1848, before they could be married, he was parted from her at the insistence of her relatives. Pugin subsequently married a Catholic, Jane Knill, on 10 August 1848. The society gossip Ralph Nevill recalled her as a very pretty woman, her every jewel mounted 'in a Gothic setting'. The set was exhibited in Pugin's Medieval Court at the Great Exhibition of 1851, where it was admired by Queen Victoria.

Materials & Making
Each unit in the chain was stamped out in two parts which were snapped together.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Necklace
  • Cross
Materials and techniques
Enamelled gold, set with cabochon garnets and pearls
Dimensions
  • Necklace length: 53.7cm
  • Cross height: 7cm
  • Cross width: 4.8cm
Dimensions checked: Measured; 22/01/1999 by sf
Style
Gallery label
British Galleries: This is one of the most striking examples of Gothic Revival jewellery, designed by the influential architect A.W.N. Pugin. The shapes which make up the necklace are simple and strong, with rich enamelling and jewels. Pugin designed very few pieces of jewellery but, like all his designs, they are influenced by historical precedents.(27/03/2003)
Credit line
Given by Mrs C. E. Gladstone
Object history
Designed by A.W.N. Pugin (born in London 1812, died in Ramsgate, Kent, 1852); made by John Hardman & Co., Birmingham
Summary
Object Type
The necklace is composed of 19 enamelled quatrefoils set with garnets. The pendant cross has quatrefoil ends decorated in the same manner as the links of the necklace. In each of the angles between the arms are four small pearls surmounted by a gold fleur-de-lis.

People
The necklace and pendant were made for Louisa Burton, the second wife of the architect A. W. N. Pugin (1812-1852). Pugin's account with John Hardman & Co. of Birmingham contains an entry on 21 December 1843 for 'A Gold enamel Chain & Cross' costing £47. 15s. Louisa died eight months later.

The cross and chain became part of the large parure (set) of jewellery prepared by Pugin for his intended third bride, Helen Lumsdaine. He persuaded Helen to convert to Catholicism, but in 1848, before they could be married, he was parted from her at the insistence of her relatives. Pugin subsequently married a Catholic, Jane Knill, on 10 August 1848. The society gossip Ralph Nevill recalled her as a very pretty woman, her every jewel mounted 'in a Gothic setting'. The set was exhibited in Pugin's Medieval Court at the Great Exhibition of 1851, where it was admired by Queen Victoria.

Materials & Making
Each unit in the chain was stamped out in two parts which were snapped together.
Collection
Accession number
M.21-1962

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Record createdFebruary 25, 2003
Record URL
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