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An Unknown Woman

Portrait Miniature
1602 (painted)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Nicholas Hilliard was never employed full-time by the monarchy, so he was forced to set up his business in the City of London, much like any other craftsman. He thus lived by erratic commissions rather than being supported by the luxury of a steady pension. Many of Hilliard's sitters were none the less from the social class that centred on the court, and this miniature is a rare example of a portrait of a person from the very different world of the city merchants and their families. With her tall black hat, smocked stomacher and apron, this woman is typical of her class. Her dress is enlivened not by elaborate jewellery but by means of naturalistic touches in the form of roses and other flowers tucked into the corners of her dress. From the gold ring, which hangs from a black thread attached to a yellow knot at her breast, it is conceivable that the portrait commemorates her marriage. The Latin inscription, Videtur et Vere est, literally means ‘it seems and truly is’. It could be her family motto, meaning something on the lines of ‘free from deception’, but it could also imply that this portrait is indeed an accurate likeness.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleAn Unknown Woman (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Watercolour on vellum stuck onto plain card
Brief description
Portrait miniature of an unknown woman, watercolour on vellum in a turned ivory box, painted by Nicholas Hilliard, 1602.
Physical description
Portrait miniature, half-length, of a woman wearing a ruff and black hat; oval in a box of turned ivory; inscriptions in gold on either side of the head.
Dimensions
  • Height: 59mm
  • Width: 44mm
Dimensions taken from: Strong, Roy. Artists of the Tudor Court: the Portrait Miniature Rediscovered 1520-1620.. London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, 1983.
Styles
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Videtur et Vere est' (Inscribed in gold around the top, left)
    Translation
    'It seems and truely is'
  • 'Ano Dni. 1602.' (Inscribed in gold around the top, right)
Credit line
Bequeathed by Mrs Doris Herschorn
Object history
Provenance: With Danton Gerault [n.b. this is a mis-spelling of Danton Guerault, who was a dealer], previous history unknown; from whom bt by Mr S H V Hickson; sold from the collection of Mr S. H. V. Hickson, Sotheby’s 29th March 1965 (lot 75), bt for Mrs D Herschorn; bequeathed to the V&A by Mrs Doris Herschorn, 1975.
Subjects depicted
Summary
Nicholas Hilliard was never employed full-time by the monarchy, so he was forced to set up his business in the City of London, much like any other craftsman. He thus lived by erratic commissions rather than being supported by the luxury of a steady pension. Many of Hilliard's sitters were none the less from the social class that centred on the court, and this miniature is a rare example of a portrait of a person from the very different world of the city merchants and their families. With her tall black hat, smocked stomacher and apron, this woman is typical of her class. Her dress is enlivened not by elaborate jewellery but by means of naturalistic touches in the form of roses and other flowers tucked into the corners of her dress. From the gold ring, which hangs from a black thread attached to a yellow knot at her breast, it is conceivable that the portrait commemorates her marriage. The Latin inscription, Videtur et Vere est, literally means ‘it seems and truly is’. It could be her family motto, meaning something on the lines of ‘free from deception’, but it could also imply that this portrait is indeed an accurate likeness.
Bibliographic references
  • Strong, Roy. Artists of the Tudor Court: the Portrait Miniature Rediscovered 1520-1620.. London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, 1983. Cat. 104, p. 85. Part Citation: "A portrait clearly painted from life and in Hilliard’s best direct, free manner. There is not flagging in spontaneity of response or technical brilliant if a sitter interested in Hilliard, which clearly this young woman did. This is a rare miniature of a person not of the court but of the city. Typical of this dress is the tall black hat, smocked stomacher and apron. Comparison may be made with the watercolours of such a costume that appear in the album amicorum of the period (see J. L. Nevinson, “The Dress of the Citizens of London 1549-1640”, Collecteana Londinensia, Studies presented to R. Merrifield, London and Middlesex Archaeological Society, 1978, pp. 265-80). The dress is enlivened by naturalistic touches in the form of roses and flowers tucked into the corners of her neckline. The suggestion that the Vere in the motto refers to the family of the Earls of Oxford can surely be discounted, together with the suggested identification as Elizabeth Trentham, second wife of Edward de Vere, 17th Earl of Oxford. Conceivably the portrait commemorates a marriage as gold ring hangs from a black thread attached to a yellow bow at her neckline. The enigmatic motto, “It seems and truly is” (?), would not exclude this interpretation. The miniature is in its contemporary turned ivory box, the lid of which is missing."
  • p. 141 Catharine MacLeod with Rab MacGibbon, Victoria Button, Katherine Coombs and Alan Derbyshire.‎ Elizabethan treasures : miniatures by Hilliard and Oliver. London : National Portrait Gallery, 2019.‎ ISBN: 9781855147027‎
Collection
Accession number
P.26-1975

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Record createdFebruary 22, 2003
Record URL
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