Jacket
1800-1850 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This type of jacket is called a ‘jimbaori’, a style of garment that developed in the 16th century as a weatherproof surcoat to be worn over armour. When this example was made, Japan was at peace. Jimbaori no longer had to withstand the rigours of battle. Instead they were worn purely for ceremony, and were designed to reflect the power and status of the samurai. This jimbaori has been made from imported wool known as rasha which has been treated and shrunk to give it a felt-like texture. As well as being warm and durable wool, with its European origins it had an exotic appeal. The lining is of dark-blue silk woven in gold with a design of dragons. The elaborate epaulettes are made of layers of thick paper covered with stencilled deerskin, gold-wrapped cord, black and purple wool and blue braid.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Wool, lined with silk, silk braid, stencilled deerskin |
| Brief description | Sleeveless surcoat for armour (jinbaori) of wool, figured silk and stencilled deerskin, Japan, 1800-1850 |
| Physical description | Man's sleeveless surcoat (jinbaori) for wearing over armour. Felted wool (rasha) with lining of woven silk and applied silk braid and stencilled deerskin. Stand-up collar in white with dark blue and gold brocade woven with a design of roundels and wavy lines. The edges are bound with a braid of gilt paper. The front edges turned back and fastened at the top with light blue cord and a metal button. At the front are two tabs for fastening, also with a metal button. On each shoulder a stiffened band with a design of knotted pale blue cord on purple wool bordered by narrow bands of black, gold and white with a geometric design in blue. On the back of the coat, a crest (mon) in applied black woollen cloth. There is a slit at the bottom of the back seam. |
| Dimensions |
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| Object history | The coat is jimbaori, probably intended for a boy. Such coat would be worn over armour. The badge appears to be a variation of the Kamei family (the character I within a formalised sheaf of rice plants). |
| Summary | This type of jacket is called a ‘jimbaori’, a style of garment that developed in the 16th century as a weatherproof surcoat to be worn over armour. When this example was made, Japan was at peace. Jimbaori no longer had to withstand the rigours of battle. Instead they were worn purely for ceremony, and were designed to reflect the power and status of the samurai. This jimbaori has been made from imported wool known as rasha which has been treated and shrunk to give it a felt-like texture. As well as being warm and durable wool, with its European origins it had an exotic appeal. The lining is of dark-blue silk woven in gold with a design of dragons. The elaborate epaulettes are made of layers of thick paper covered with stencilled deerskin, gold-wrapped cord, black and purple wool and blue braid. |
| Bibliographic reference | Crill, Rosemary, Verity Wilson. Dress In Detail From Around The World. London: V&A Publication, 2002, 194-195p.
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.136-1964 |
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| Record created | February 20, 2003 |
| Record URL |
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