Embroidered mantle of silk plush and marabou feathers, France, 1880-1885.

Mantle of brown silk plush trimmed with panels of ribbon and appliqué embroidery in a floral and vermicular design enhaced with bronze and gold beads on the centre back, cuffs and fronts. It is edged with dark brown marabou feathers. The centre back vent is headed by a dark brown satin ribbon with endswhich reach the hem.

It fastens, neck to hem with concealed black hooks and eyes and there is a button fastening at the back vent. There is a blue ribbon waist band. The monegram is embroidered on the lining.

It is interlined and lined with pale blue silk. There is a ribbon loop for hanging. On the left side of the lining is a square patch pocket and on the right is a rectangular fan pocket. Both fasten with self covered buttons.

The garment is almost full length with a high neck and shaped half sleeves. There is shaping to accomodate a bustle.

Given by Count Adam Zamoyski

By the 1880s cloaks and mantles were still worn for warmth outdoors, but their shape had radically slimmed down from the 1860s, so as to follow the contour of the dress underneath. Mantles worn with evening dress were often trimmed with feathers, braid and beaded embroidery. This mantle is sleeved with wide cuffs and the back is shaped to fit over the bustle.

T.311-1977