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Robe

  • Place of origin:

    Burhanpur (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    18th century (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Block-printed, painted and dyed cotton

  • Museum number:

    IM.312-1921

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This elegant robe for a man is of the type called a jama, which crosses over the chest and is fastened with ties at the side. This is a particularly elaborate example - most jamas were made of plain white cotton - and is patterned with a repeating block-printed floral design. The ties at the side have been made into a decorative feature in themselves, with carefully designed floral motifs made to fit the lappets.
Jamas were popular court wear at the Mughal, Rajput and Deccani courts. They were worn somewhat shorter in the 17th century - by the 18th century when this jama was made and worn, the fashion was for ankle-length robes.

Physical description

Full-sized man's robe (jama) in one piece, made of printed, painted and dyed cotton. With printed floral design and long sleeves. The fabric has been impressed in fourfold diagonal lines to form a diamond trellis. Short body, full pleated skirt and long narrow sleeves. The front is secured by green tying cords. At the neck is a bunch of three tabs and there are two further tabs under the right arm. The small repeated pattern consists of diagonal rows of a delicate floral spray of a purple aster-like flower and lotus leaves.

Place of Origin

Burhanpur (possibly, made)

Date

18th century (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Block-printed, painted and dyed cotton

Dimensions

Height: 105 cm, Length: 59 in, Width: 88 in across sleeves, Width: 171 in skirt

Object history note

Formerly in the collection of the Nizam of Hydrabad.

Descriptive line

Man's robe (jama) made of printed, painted and dyed cotton, possibly made in Burhanpur, 18th century

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.121, pl.101.
Murphy Veronica, in The Indian Heritage. Court Life and Arts under Mughal Rule, V&A, 1982, cat. 257, p. 96, ISBN 0906969263.

Materials

Cotton

Techniques

Painted; Resist dyed

Subjects depicted

Horses; Güls; Birds; Animals; Floral pattern

Categories

Textiles; Men's clothes

Collection

South & South East Asia Collection

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