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Not currently on display at the V&A

Robe

18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This elegant robe for a man is of the type called a jama, which crosses over the chest and is fastened with ties at the side. This is a particularly elaborate example - most jamas were made of plain white cotton - and is patterned with a repeating block-printed floral design. The ties at the side have been made into a decorative feature in themselves, with carefully designed floral motifs made to fit the lappets.
Jamas were popular court wear at the Mughal, Rajput and Deccani courts. They were worn somewhat shorter in the 17th century - by the 18th century when this jama was made and worn, the fashion was for ankle-length robes.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Block-printed, painted and dyed cotton
Brief description
Man's robe (jama) made of printed, painted and dyed cotton, possibly made in Burhanpur, 18th century
Physical description
Full-sized man's robe (jama) in one piece, made of printed, painted and dyed cotton. With printed floral design and long sleeves. The fabric has been impressed in fourfold diagonal lines to form a diamond trellis. Short body, full pleated skirt and long narrow sleeves. The front is secured by green tying cords. At the neck is a bunch of three tabs and there are two further tabs under the right arm. The small repeated pattern consists of diagonal rows of a delicate floral spray of a purple aster-like flower and lotus leaves.
Dimensions
  • Height: 105cm
  • Length: 59in
  • Across sleeves width: 88in
  • Skirt width: 171in
Credit line
Purchased from Mr. J. Gazdar, c/o Thomas Cook & Sons, Ludgate Circus, E.C.4
Object history
Formerly in the collection of the Nizam of Hydrabad.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This elegant robe for a man is of the type called a jama, which crosses over the chest and is fastened with ties at the side. This is a particularly elaborate example - most jamas were made of plain white cotton - and is patterned with a repeating block-printed floral design. The ties at the side have been made into a decorative feature in themselves, with carefully designed floral motifs made to fit the lappets.
Jamas were popular court wear at the Mughal, Rajput and Deccani courts. They were worn somewhat shorter in the 17th century - by the 18th century when this jama was made and worn, the fashion was for ankle-length robes.
Bibliographic references
  • Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.121, pl.101.
  • The Indian Heritage. Court life and Arts under Mughal Rule London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, 1982 Number: ISBN 0 906969 26 3 p. 96, cat. no. 257, Veronica Murphy
  • The art of India and Pakistan, a commemorative catalogue of the exhibition held at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 1947-8. Edited by Sir Leigh Ashton. London: Faber and Faber, [1950] p. 214. cat. no.1018
Collection
Accession number
IM.312-1921

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Record createdFebruary 6, 2003
Record URL
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