Waist Sash thumbnail 1
Waist Sash thumbnail 2
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On display
Image of Gallery in South Kensington

Waist Sash

18th century (made)
Place of origin
Burhanpur (made)
Coromandel Coast (made)

Sash (patka) of block-printed, mordant and resist-dyed cotton. At each end there is a deep border enclosing a row of five vertical floral sprays of Celosia cristata (cockscomb). The blossoms are in red and yellow, the stems and leaves in green and yellow. Narrow borders of the same blossoms on undulating stems run above and below each of the end panels as well as down the whole length of the sides.

Object details

Categories
Textiles
Men's Clothes
Clothing
Accessories
Object type
Waist Sash
Materials and techniques
Block-printed, mordant and resist-dyed
Cotton
Resist Dyed
Mordant Dyed
Brief description
Patka (waist sash) of block-printed, mordant and resist-dyed cotton, Coromandel Coast (probably), 18th century; Textiles; Clothing; Accessories
Physical description
Sash (patka) of block-printed, mordant and resist-dyed cotton. At each end there is a deep border enclosing a row of five vertical floral sprays of Celosia cristata (cockscomb). The blossoms are in red and yellow, the stems and leaves in green and yellow. Narrow borders of the same blossoms on undulating stems run above and below each of the end panels as well as down the whole length of the sides.
Dimensions
  • Height: 526cm
  • Width: 72.5cm
  • Height: 207in
  • Width: 28.5in
  • Patterned end and borders height: 77cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • (Red stamp at centre of one end. Six undeciphered Tamil characters in a rectangle. Research indicates such stamps may have been used as an inventory marker identifying the textile as consigned to the East India Company factory at Machilipatnam. )
  • (Stamped with inventory seals from the court of the Nizams of Hyderabad)
Gallery label
(01/08/2017)
PATKAS
Cotton, block-printed, mordant and resist-dyed
Coromandel Coast
18th century

Patkas, or waist sashes, ranged in style from opulent silk-and-gold brocades to plain cottons. Muslim rulers traditionally bestowed clothing, including patkas, on their courtiers. In order to fulfil this custom, vast supplies of garments were needed in a variety of qualities to suit different ranks. These two fine examples came from the textile stores of the Nizams of Hyderabad, and were possibly intended for use as gifts.

IM.311-1921 & IS.101-1948, the latter bequeathed by Sir Michael Sadleir
Credit line
Purchased from Mr. J. Gazdar, c/o Thomas Cook & Sons, Ludgate Circus, E.C.4
Object history
Formerly in the collection of the Nizam of Hyderabad

Purchased from Mr. J. Gazdar, c/o Thomas Cook & Sons, Ludgate Circus, E.C.4. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

R.P. 1921-4408
Bibliographic references
  • Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.121, pl.100.
  • The art of India and Pakistan, a commemorative catalogue of the exhibition held at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 1947-8. Edited by Sir Leigh Ashton. London: Faber and Faber, [1950] p. 215, cat. no. 1023
  • Irwin, John C., Indian Art, Victoria and Albert Museum, London: H. M. Stationery Office, 1968 pl. 59
  • Irwin, John, C., A Brief Guide to Indian Art, H.M.S.O. 1962 fig. 19
  • Irwin, John; Indian Art: Victoria & Albert Museum departmental guide, H.M.S.O. ISBN 0 905209117, 1978 fig. 19. pp. 15-16
Other number
1921/4408 - RF number
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
IM.311-1921

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Record createdFebruary 6, 2003
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74002/waist-sash/
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