Turban Jewel thumbnail 1
Turban Jewel thumbnail 2
+3
images
On display
Image of Gallery in South Kensington

Turban Jewel

ca. 1750 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The incomplete nature of this turban ornament, which is missing the standard jewelled front, reveals the technique of manufacture of most of the enamelled and jewelled gold ornaments made under Mughal stylistic influence. They are not solid gold but hollow and filled with lac, a natural resin. The enamelling would be completed before the lac was added, and the stones would then be set into the piece using kundan – highly refined gold that can be pressed into place by the jeweller’s tools without using heat.

This piece was one of a small group bought by the V&A in 1922 and 1923 from a Mr Talyarkhan, who said he had purchased them from the Maharaja of Jaipur in Rajasthan, north-west India. Mr Talyarkhan noted that the piece had been made in Jaipur, a renowned centre of enamelling, but this cannot be verified.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Enamelled gold backed with lac
Brief description
Incomplete turban ornament, enamelled gold filled with lac, Possibly Jaipur, c.1750.
Physical description
Half section (back) of a turban aigrette. Gold, enamelled in translucent red and green, and white.
Dimensions
  • Height: 17.3cm
  • Width: 5cm
Credit line
Purchased from A.F.S. Talyarkhan, Esq. c/o Thomas Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, E.C.4
Object history
This was one of a small group of turban jewels bought by the museum in 1922 from a Mr Talyarkhan, who said that he had purchased them from the Maharaja of Jaipur.

Purchased from A.F.S. Talyarkhan, Esq. c/o Thomas Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, E.C.4. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

R.P.1922-3402
Subject depicted
Summary
The incomplete nature of this turban ornament, which is missing the standard jewelled front, reveals the technique of manufacture of most of the enamelled and jewelled gold ornaments made under Mughal stylistic influence. They are not solid gold but hollow and filled with lac, a natural resin. The enamelling would be completed before the lac was added, and the stones would then be set into the piece using kundan – highly refined gold that can be pressed into place by the jeweller’s tools without using heat.

This piece was one of a small group bought by the V&A in 1922 and 1923 from a Mr Talyarkhan, who said he had purchased them from the Maharaja of Jaipur in Rajasthan, north-west India. Mr Talyarkhan noted that the piece had been made in Jaipur, a renowned centre of enamelling, but this cannot be verified.
Bibliographic references
  • Susan Stronge, Nima Smith, and J.C. Harle. A Golden Treasury : Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent London : Victoria and Albert Museum in association with Mapin Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1988. ISBN: 0944142168 p.54
  • Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.103, no.87.
Collection
Accession number
IM.47-1922

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Record createdFebruary 6, 2003
Record URL
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