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Waistcoat

  • Place of origin:

    Coromandel Coast (Fabric was produced on the Coromandel Coast, made)
    Great Britain (waistcoat, made)
    Great Britain (Waistcoat was tailored in Great Britain, made)

  • Date:

    c.1770-1775 (made)
    19th century (made)
    c.19th century (made)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Cotton, mordant and resist-dyed (chintz); lined with linen

  • Museum number:

    IS.20-1976

  • Gallery location:

    South Asia, Room 41, case 6B

The British market tended to prefer chintz with white backgrounds and delicate floral motifs. This waistcoat was made in the 19th century from 18th-century fabric. The all-over pattern of the fabric meant that it could be cut into any kind of garment,unlike customised fabric where the patterning was designed to be made into specific garments.

Physical description

Waistcoat of mordant and resist-dyed cotton (chintz). White ground, with an all-over repeating pattern of delicate scrolling stems bearing a variety of flowers, fruit and foliage, with butterflies. Flowerheads composed of very spiky rosettes. The colours of the design are reds, pink, violet, and two shades of blue. No yellow surviving. The waistcoat is fairly long, single-breasted, with three pockets. It is lined with white linen having a woven pattern of delicate pink and blue cross-stripes, creating the effect of a violet openwork chequer pattern.

Place of Origin

Coromandel Coast (Fabric was produced on the Coromandel Coast, made)
Great Britain (waistcoat, made)
Great Britain (Waistcoat was tailored in Great Britain, made)

Date

c.1770-1775 (made)
19th century (made)
c.19th century (made)

Materials and Techniques

Cotton, mordant and resist-dyed (chintz); lined with linen

Dimensions

Height: 86 cm, Width: 117.5 cm

Object history note

When acquired, the waistcoat was accompanied by another, of identical material and lining fabric, but cut in a short style which was passed onto the Calico Museum.

Descriptive line

Waistcoat, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed cotton (chintz), Coromandel Coast for the British market 1770-1775; tailored in 1800s; Textiles; Clothing

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Crill, Rosemary. Chintz : Indian textiles for the West London: V&A Publishing, 2008, Cat. No. 77, p. 31, illus. p. 127.
Crill, Rosemary, Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West, London, 2008.

Labels and date

WAISTCOAT
Cotton, mordant- and resist-dyed
Coromandel Coast for the British market
Fabric c. 1750-75

The British market tended to prefer chintz with white backgrounds and delicate floral motifs. This waistcoat was made in the 19th century from 18th-century fabric. The all-over pattern of the fabric meant that it could be cut into any kind of garment, unlike customised fabric where the patterning was designed to be made into specific garments. [01/08/2017]
Waistcoat
painted and dyed cotton
Coromandel Coast, South-east India, for the English market
The fabric c. 1750-75; made up as a waistcoat in the 19th century
IS 20-1976 [13/10/1992-17/01/2003]

Materials

Cotton; Linen

Techniques

Mordant dyed; Resist dyeing

Categories

Images Online; Fashion; Textiles; Clothing

Collection

South & South East Asia Collection

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