Coat of embroidered wool with gold thread, designed for Marie Cuttoli, retailed by House of Myrbor, Paris, 1925

Wide and square coat made of white wool embroidered with wide bands filled with linked circular motifs in gold thread. The sleeves are square and are made of terracotta corded silk. The sleeves and front opening are edged with embroidered bands. Straight cut with straight wide sleeves with a turned back cuff inserted into the armhole. The embroidered motif, inspired by African art, show bands of quartered circles. The coat is lined with terracotta corded silk.

This coat, most probably unique, was designed by Maison Myrbor, an exclusive shop selling garments, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde. It was said at the time of acquisition to have been made from a Tunisian robe.

It was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

Historical significance: This coat, largely inspired by African art and Eastern cuts, illustrates the vogue for exoticism which triumphed during the early years of the 1920s. The African inspired motifs, more stylised, were often used for exclusive garments designed by the avant-garde.

This wide, square coat is made of white wool embroidered with gold thread. The sleeves are square and made of corded silk, which also lines the garment. Embroidered motifs, inspired by African art, show bands of quartered circles. During the 1920s, fashion was strongly influenced by the Art Deco style. Art Deco drew its inspiration from many sources, including African art, the motifs of which, often stylised, were used for exclusive garments designed by the avant-garde.

This coat was designed and made for ‘Maison Myrbor’ (House of Myrbor) a Parisian shop launched Marie Cuttoli. The French wife of a French ambassador, Cutolli had opened an atelier of embroidery in Algiers before the First World War. Myrbor specialised in curtains, rugs and dresses embroidered with abstract designs.

T.221-1967