This durumagi, or outerwear, was designed by Lee Chunghie (b. 1945) a Korean textile artist fame for her bold and innovative designs. She uses the gekki, a Korean traditional triple-stitching technique, in order to create strong, linear and asymmetric patterns in her fabric. During the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910) the durumagi designated a long overcoat without slits, which was fastened with sashes at chest level. It was worn all year long mainly by men and women from the upper echelons of society. This privilege disappeared however when the class distinction faded by the late nineteenth century. This societal development was perceptible in the durumagi’s design whose overall silhouette grew slimmer with straighter or narrower sleeves. The black durumagi was introduced in 1895 as a way to visually level social disparities while making the outercoat more convenient to wear and care for.

Lee’s durumagi is a tribute to Joseon women who led a secluded life in the anchae, the women’s quarter of a traditional house. Amid their countless chores, sewing often provided a means of freedom and creative expression. This was particular true for embroideries and bojagis, a wrapping cloth traditionally made of left-over fabrics of different shapes and colours. These works conveyed serene and timeless beauty that inspired many artists like Lee and her durumagi.