Robert Bonfils (1886-1972) designed this silk furnishing fabric called ‘Variations’ for Bianchini-Férier about 1931. From the late 1920s designs were increasingly abstract and muted in colour. Bonfils was also a graphic artist. Here he draws on a type of imagery that took new technology as a starting point for the depiction of machine parts and accelerated movement.

The silk manufacturers Bianchini-Férier were known for their innovative and lively fabrics. The Lyon silk industry, which had flourished since the 1500s, was a major producer of luxury goods for a worldwide market. This was an era when the French government actively promoted this sector, since they sought to establish French design as the foremost in Europe.

In 1909 Charles Bianchini, one of the partners in the firm, had visited Vienna, a leading city for textile design. He subsequently established an office in Paris. This enabled him to cultivate good relations with the top Parisian couturiers, such as Lanvin, Patou and Poiret, who all bought dress fabrics from him. He also employed chic illustrators such as Paul Iribe (1883-1935), Charles Martin (1848-1934) and Georges Barbier (1882-1932) to design textiles for the firm.