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Not currently on display at the V&A

Design

10/05/1708 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated May 10th 1708. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Sandys, a mercer who commissioned three designs from Leman between 1707 and 1708.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Pencil, pen and ink, watercolor and bodycolour on laid paper
Brief description
Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1708
Physical description
Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, depicting architectural features in yellow, including an arch and the base of a pyramid. These are adorned with a variety of stylised flowers in pink, red, orange and blue, with green leaves. There are also additional decorative elements.

The design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink and is patched in one place.
Dimensions
  • Height: 62.9cm
  • Width: 26.4cm
  • Height: 24.75in
  • Width: 10.375in
Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'London May ye 10th 1708 - / A Figure for an orrace tishue Brocaded wth Silk / For Mr Sandys / 400 Cords No 8 & 10-120 Dezines longe / drawn somewhat longer than it is after / the rate of 8 10 & 11 [10 crossed out and 8 inserted] / in six simples - 21 in each. / by me James Leman / 1708.' (Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design, on the fold.)
  • Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink. Patched in one place. (Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in ink, on the front of the design.)
Credit line
Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund
Object history
This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.

Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.
Summary
This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated May 10th 1708. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Sandys, a mercer who commissioned three designs from Leman between 1707 and 1708.
Bibliographic reference
Rothstein, Natalie. Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899. p. 99,
Other number
VS.38 - 'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.
Collection
Accession number
E.1861:44-1991

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Record createdMay 3, 2002
Record URL
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