Design thumbnail 1
Request to view

This object can be requested via email from the Prints & Drawings Study Room

Design

22/04/1707 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated April 22nd 1707. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper
Brief description
Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1707
Physical description
Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, depicting a long pattern of large red, orange and green flowers and a round, green melon-like shape, near the top of the design. There is a circular shape, decorated with parallel red and green stripes near the bottom of the design, above which is a large pod shape decorated with panels of yellow and green flowers alternating with yellow and green stripes.

The design is squared up in ink for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.
Dimensions
  • Height: 63cm
  • Width: 26.7cm
  • Height: 24.75in
  • Width: 10.5in
Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'London ye 22d Apr: 1707. / flowd:sattin to change colours / 400 Cords 8 & 12-120 Dezines long. / for my father P L / by mee James Leman.' (Handwritten text including the designer's signature and date on the back of the design. The design is pasted down with the inscription on the back therefore it is very difficult to see.)
  • Many calculations on the back. (Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in ink. The design is pasted down therfore the calculations are difficult to see.)
  • 'A S' (Handwritten initials in pencil, visible on the back of the fold of the design.)
Credit line
Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund
Object history
This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.

Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.
Summary
This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated April 22nd 1707. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.
Bibliographic reference
Rothstein, Natalie. Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899. p. 98
Other number
VS.8 - Vanners Silks number
Collection
Accession number
E.1861:14-1991

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdMay 3, 2002
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest