Turban Ornament
1700-1750 (made)
Place of origin |
This turban jewel is a superb example of precious stone setting in jade. In the upper section, emeralds, rubies and crystals are cut to fit each leaf with as many as seven small, shaped rubies on one leaf, though most have only one or two. The veins of the leaves have been carved onto the shaped gemstones before setting. At the back, relief decoration on the surface of the jade also suggests flowers and leaves. A ring behind the large rosette would have held a feather plume, while the stem would have been used to fit the ornament into a turban. Wearing turban jewels was originally the prerogative of rulers and the royal family in the Mughal empire. By the 18th century, as Mughal power diminished, regional rulers took this emblem of royalty for themselves.
The turban jewel was part of the collection of Indian hardstones, including imperial Mughal artefacts, owned by Colonel Charles Seton Guthrie. He sold much of his collection to the Indian Museum in Leadenhall Street, London, and his objects were transferred in 1879 to this museum. This turban jewel, exceptionally, was a gift by Guthrie to the Indian Museum.
The turban jewel was part of the collection of Indian hardstones, including imperial Mughal artefacts, owned by Colonel Charles Seton Guthrie. He sold much of his collection to the Indian Museum in Leadenhall Street, London, and his objects were transferred in 1879 to this museum. This turban jewel, exceptionally, was a gift by Guthrie to the Indian Museum.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | White nephrite jade, and gold inset with rubies, emeralds, probably topaz, with gold foil, rock crystal and pearl. The source of the pearl is probably a saltwater oyster (Genus: Pinctada). |
Brief description | Turban ornament, Mughal empire, jade and gemstones, first half of the eighteenth century |
Physical description | Turban ornament: The jewel is made in two sections, the upper part fashioned from a single block of white nephrite jade and worked at the back to include a holder for a feather plume. The setting of gemstones is the work of a highly skilled craftsman, with each petal filled by two or three stones carved to fit the curving spaces exactly. |
Dimensions |
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Style | |
Credit line | Given by Col. Charles Seton Guthrie |
Object history | From the collection of Col. Charles Seton Guthrie. Transferred in 1879 from the India Museum to the South Kensington Museum, which later became the Victoria & Albert Museum. |
Production | The Mughal empire straddled territory including both the modern states of India and Pakistan, which were created as separate entities in 1947. The object could have been made anywhere in the empire. |
Summary | This turban jewel is a superb example of precious stone setting in jade. In the upper section, emeralds, rubies and crystals are cut to fit each leaf with as many as seven small, shaped rubies on one leaf, though most have only one or two. The veins of the leaves have been carved onto the shaped gemstones before setting. At the back, relief decoration on the surface of the jade also suggests flowers and leaves. A ring behind the large rosette would have held a feather plume, while the stem would have been used to fit the ornament into a turban. Wearing turban jewels was originally the prerogative of rulers and the royal family in the Mughal empire. By the 18th century, as Mughal power diminished, regional rulers took this emblem of royalty for themselves. The turban jewel was part of the collection of Indian hardstones, including imperial Mughal artefacts, owned by Colonel Charles Seton Guthrie. He sold much of his collection to the Indian Museum in Leadenhall Street, London, and his objects were transferred in 1879 to this museum. This turban jewel, exceptionally, was a gift by Guthrie to the Indian Museum. |
Bibliographic references |
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Collection | |
Accession number | 02569(IS) |
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Record created | February 12, 2002 |
Record URL |
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