Afternoon Dress and Mantle
1880s (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Dress in grey blue taffeta comprising bodice, skirt, waistband and mantle. It is trimmed with silk and fly braid trimmings.
The bodice is made of blue taffeta trimmed with a darker blue silk satin. It has a front fastening with hook and eye closures and is loosely pleated with ruching towards the waist. The reverse has two fan-shaped seams with loose pleating and ruching down the centre back. The bodice has a high ruched collar which is edged with silk satin and lace. The lace trimming has probably been added at a later date. The sleeves are long and narrow to the wrists and have ruched cuffs. The armhole seam is trimmed with a narrow band of silk satin. The bodice is lined with white silk and is supported by light boning. The waist tie is made of cream grosgrain and has a hook and eye fastening. It is stamped with "Barenne" 62 Champs Elysees.
The skirt is made of blue taffeta and lined with a wool and linen mix. The skirt is constructed with drapery to simulate an overskirt. It would have been supported by a structure worn underneath to give it its shape. The hem is trimmed with silk satin applied around the hem to form petal-shaped decoration. The waistband is fastened with a hook and eye closure. The right hand side seam opens to form a pocket lined with silk. There are internal loops for fastening to create the bustle effect.
The taffeta waistband is trimmed with darker silk satin. The large ruched bow is made of silk satin. The waistband is fastened with three large hooks and eyes.
The sleevless mantle has a hem cut in a series of petal shapes. The armholes, collar and hem are trimmed with silk satin. The armholes and hem are also trimmed with silk fly braid. The mantle is fastened at the front with two sets of silk-satin covered buttons and two toggle-style closures with loops. The neck is fastened with a small button and loop fastening.
The bodice is made of blue taffeta trimmed with a darker blue silk satin. It has a front fastening with hook and eye closures and is loosely pleated with ruching towards the waist. The reverse has two fan-shaped seams with loose pleating and ruching down the centre back. The bodice has a high ruched collar which is edged with silk satin and lace. The lace trimming has probably been added at a later date. The sleeves are long and narrow to the wrists and have ruched cuffs. The armhole seam is trimmed with a narrow band of silk satin. The bodice is lined with white silk and is supported by light boning. The waist tie is made of cream grosgrain and has a hook and eye fastening. It is stamped with "Barenne" 62 Champs Elysees.
The skirt is made of blue taffeta and lined with a wool and linen mix. The skirt is constructed with drapery to simulate an overskirt. It would have been supported by a structure worn underneath to give it its shape. The hem is trimmed with silk satin applied around the hem to form petal-shaped decoration. The waistband is fastened with a hook and eye closure. The right hand side seam opens to form a pocket lined with silk. There are internal loops for fastening to create the bustle effect.
The taffeta waistband is trimmed with darker silk satin. The large ruched bow is made of silk satin. The waistband is fastened with three large hooks and eyes.
The sleevless mantle has a hem cut in a series of petal shapes. The armholes, collar and hem are trimmed with silk satin. The armholes and hem are also trimmed with silk fly braid. The mantle is fastened at the front with two sets of silk-satin covered buttons and two toggle-style closures with loops. The neck is fastened with a small button and loop fastening.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 4 parts.
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| Materials and techniques | Taffeta, silk satin, wool and metal. Hand and machine sewn |
| Brief description | Afternoon dress and mantle, French, 1875-1880, blue silk, made by Barenne |
| Physical description | Dress in grey blue taffeta comprising bodice, skirt, waistband and mantle. It is trimmed with silk and fly braid trimmings. The bodice is made of blue taffeta trimmed with a darker blue silk satin. It has a front fastening with hook and eye closures and is loosely pleated with ruching towards the waist. The reverse has two fan-shaped seams with loose pleating and ruching down the centre back. The bodice has a high ruched collar which is edged with silk satin and lace. The lace trimming has probably been added at a later date. The sleeves are long and narrow to the wrists and have ruched cuffs. The armhole seam is trimmed with a narrow band of silk satin. The bodice is lined with white silk and is supported by light boning. The waist tie is made of cream grosgrain and has a hook and eye fastening. It is stamped with "Barenne" 62 Champs Elysees. The skirt is made of blue taffeta and lined with a wool and linen mix. The skirt is constructed with drapery to simulate an overskirt. It would have been supported by a structure worn underneath to give it its shape. The hem is trimmed with silk satin applied around the hem to form petal-shaped decoration. The waistband is fastened with a hook and eye closure. The right hand side seam opens to form a pocket lined with silk. There are internal loops for fastening to create the bustle effect. The taffeta waistband is trimmed with darker silk satin. The large ruched bow is made of silk satin. The waistband is fastened with three large hooks and eyes. The sleevless mantle has a hem cut in a series of petal shapes. The armholes, collar and hem are trimmed with silk satin. The armholes and hem are also trimmed with silk fly braid. The mantle is fastened at the front with two sets of silk-satin covered buttons and two toggle-style closures with loops. The neck is fastened with a small button and loop fastening. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions | Barenne, 62, Champs Elysées (Maker's label) |
| Credit line | Given by Mr. Fred Hohler |
| Object history | Given by Mr Fred Hohler Historical significance: The cape (T.624:4-1999) is particularly unusual and will fill a gap in our collection of women's outer clothing. The label in the bodice is interesting as it documents how shopping patterns were altering and the concept of shopping widening during the second half of the 19th century. By the 1880s the label had become very important in fashionable dress with a certain cachet attached to Parisian and London dressmakers working from a noteworthy address. |
| Historical context | This garment was worn by Lady de L'Isle and forms part of a collection donated by Mr Fred Hohler (her great grandson) spanning twenty to thirty years in her life. It could be displayed as part of a wardrobe shoing how one wealthy woman's fashions and body shape changed from young adulthood to her mid 30s. This is the earliest ensemble which probably dates from the 1880s, and is complete with a bustle and draped overskirt as was fashionable at this time. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.624:1-4-1999 |
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| Record created | November 28, 2001 |
| Record URL |
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