Born in Cyprus and trained at Central Saint Martin's, London, Chalayan launched his own label in 1994. This ensemble, designed the following year, illustrates Chalayan's interest in textile techniques. Chalayan buried the fabric for this medieval-inspired jacket in his garden with iron filings. The experiment resulted in a burst of rich rust colour over the fabric. Long tipett-like strips -a medieval reference- hang from the shoulders of the jacket. A double-layered dress, with one layer made of linen and the other of silk, creates a subtle variety of soft texture, which is in sharp contrast to the rough cotton canvas and rusted appearance of the jacket.