Not on display

Collar

ca. 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This embroidered collar is the work of Jessie Newbery. In 1894 she established a Department of Embroidery at the Glasgow School of Art. The teaching there took a revolutionary new form. Newbery wanted embroiderers to develop their originality and skills more intuitively by using simple images, materials and techniques. She became one of the most influential members of the group of artists known as the Glasgow School. Her work shows many of the characteristics of their style. They used a more linear rather than curving version of Art Nouveau. Their designs now enjoy worldwide acclaim.

The collar is embroidered with a geometrical design and moths in mauve, green and brown silks, with green beads, linen appliqué, French knots, chain stitch, braid stitch, Cretan feather stitch, and laid and couched work. There are four buttonholes to attach it to the neckline of a blouse or dress.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Embroidered linen with silks, beaded, appliquéd
Brief description
Collar of embroidered linen with silks, designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, Glasgow, ca. 1900
Physical description
Collar of embroidered linen with silks in grey-green and with a geometrical design and moths in shades of mauve, green and brown silks. With green beads and appliqué, French knots, chain stitch, braid stitch, Cretan feather stitch, laid and couched work. There are four buttonholes for attachment to a dress.
Dimensions
  • Length: 20cm
  • Width: 59.7cm
  • Depth: 8in
  • Width: 21.75in
Credit line
Given by Mrs M.N. Sturrock and Mrs Lang, daughters of the designer
Object history
The acquisition paperwork (Registered File: MA/1/S3934) and V&A's departmental accession folders explain that the collar was gifted by Newbery’s daughters Mrs Mary Arbuckle Newbery Sturrock and Mrs Margaret Elliot Lang following its loan for the exhibition Victorian and Edwardian Decorative Arts in 1952-3 but it was not displayed in the exhibition.
Summary
This embroidered collar is the work of Jessie Newbery. In 1894 she established a Department of Embroidery at the Glasgow School of Art. The teaching there took a revolutionary new form. Newbery wanted embroiderers to develop their originality and skills more intuitively by using simple images, materials and techniques. She became one of the most influential members of the group of artists known as the Glasgow School. Her work shows many of the characteristics of their style. They used a more linear rather than curving version of Art Nouveau. Their designs now enjoy worldwide acclaim.

The collar is embroidered with a geometrical design and moths in mauve, green and brown silks, with green beads, linen appliqué, French knots, chain stitch, braid stitch, Cretan feather stitch, and laid and couched work. There are four buttonholes to attach it to the neckline of a blouse or dress.
Bibliographic reference
Linda Parry, Textiles of the Arts and Crafts Movement (London 1988), plate 185
Collection
Accession number
T.65-1953

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Record createdSeptember 4, 2001
Record URL
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