Crinoline 'A Favorite Of The Empress' consisting of a spring steel frame covered with red wool and linen, probably made in Great Britain, 1860-1865

Crinoline consisting of a spring steel frame covered with red wool and linen. Red and white striped woven waistband fastened with stamped metal hooks and eyes, and to the back of which is attached a semi-circular red wool back panel lined with white cotton and machine stitched in white from which hang a red diamond pattern woven woollen tapes which are threaded spring steels covered with braid woven wool which wrap over to fasten with a brass metal clamp in front. The hoops reach from the sides around the back to knee level and from there to the base and around the whole of the body. The outline is circular with extra fullness at the back. The bottom row of steels are covered with a red wool 'skirt'. Extra fullness is created at the top back with half hoops.

Given by Mrs A. E. Valdez

Registered File number 1986/1672.

In the 19th century fashion benefited from many advances in science and technology. The development of spring steel led to the invention of the ‘cage crinoline’. The word 'crinoline' was first used in the 1840s to describe petticoats lined with horsehair cloth. These were worn with up to 8 petticoats to help support the fashionable wide skirt. Sometimes padding had to be used to give the correct shape.

By 1856, ever widening skirts meant the weight of these petticoats became very uncomfortable. Attempts were made to solve this problem, including petticoats made from inflatable rubber tubes. These were a failure owing to unexpected punctures!

The 'artificial', or 'cage' crinoline appeared in 1857 as a welcome and more practical alternative. It was made of spring steel hoops, increasing in diameter towards the bottom and connected with tapes. The earliest cage crinolines were bell-shaped.

This frame of very light but strong steel wire replaced heavy layers of petticoats, and women’s dress became even more voluminous. Although ridiculed by the press, crinolines were very popular and mass-produced in many urban centres in their thousands.

T.150-1986