Turban cover of embroidered linen with silk and metal threads, Turkey, 1770-1830

Turban cover of embroidered linen with silk in double darning on the diagonal, double running in a line, satin stitch and running stitch with spaced cross stitch (border) and with metal thread in double darning on the diagonal (spaced) and fishbone stitch.

In the centre is a roundel from which six blossoms emerge on stems, and these are surrounded by a scalloped border, all worked in metal thread with pink details. An outer circle encloses nine floral sprigs and each stem begins with a curl and a low pink leaf. The centre of the stem bugles out and is blue, and to either side is a sprig bearing hanging white flowers, a pink leaf and a small green leaf. To the left is a spray of green leaves and the blossom is in three parts: white, pink and metal thread. There is a small horizontal spray of pink leaves between each motif. Isolated floral motifs (identical to the ones in the centre) are placed in bands across the field with a maximum of six and a partial motif per band. The motifs face towards the horizontal axis of the cover. Made from two widths joined after being embroidered.

Given by HM Queen Mary

A turban cover is a lightweight square cloth. It was placed over the turban when it was not in use to protect it from dust and disrespectful treatment. Turbans indicated the rank of the wearer. They were removed like hats and not unwound. The red woollen fez replaced turbans for all except the ulema (clergy) about 1827. From about the 1720s onwards Ottoman embroidery stopped copying woven designs and became a truly creative art form. Designers introduced new, lifelike floral decorations, many of which were very detailed. They allowed some floral decorations to sway and sweep across the fabric. Some were stylised. All decorations were worked in soft colours often enriched with metal thread. The colours of many 18th century embroideries were originally very bright but they have faded to pleasing pastel shades.

CIRC.34-1936