A turban cover of linen embroidered with silk and metal thread, Turkey, 18th/early 19th century

Turban Cover, linen embroidered with silk in double darning on the diagonal, double running in a line and padded satin stitch and with metal thread in double darning on the diagonal (spaced) and fishbone stitch.
There is a round blossom in the centre surrounded by seven pomegrates within a circle, all worked in metal thread. An outer circle surrounds nine inward facing sprigs, each with a central blossom worked in metal thread, five leaves in white silk and three tiny pink leaves.
This floral motif is repated across the field, either eight times or seven times with a partial motif at either side. the rows of motifs face towards the horizontal axis of the cover; occasionally the alignment of the motif within a row changes.
Made from two widths joined after being embroidered.

Given by Mrs C. J. Longman

A turban cover is a lightweight square cloth. It was placed over the turban when it was not in use to protect it from dust and disrespectful treatment. Turbans indicated the rank of the wearer. They were removed like hats and not unwound. The red woollen fez replaced turbans for all except the ulema (clergy) about 1827. From about the 1720s onwards Ottoman embroidery stopped copying woven designs and became a truly creative art form. Designers introduced new, lifelike floral decorations, many of which were very detailed. They allowed some floral decorations to sway and sweep across the fabric. Some were stylised. All decorations were worked in soft colours often enriched with metal thread.

CIRC.428-1930