Hood for a woman (fengmao), satin-weave silk; embroidery in silk and metallic threads, China, 1875-1900

Large round hood with a long curved back of mauve satin embroidered with silver thread and coloured silks in satin, stem and long and short stitches with knots and couched work. Lining of blue silk woven with flower ovals against a fret-pattern ground.

Each side of the hood is embroidered with the same design, consisting of sprays of flowers: lotus, daisy, narcissus, prunus, peony, citrus and pomegranate, amongst which are birds including peacock, crane and phoenix, as well as butterflies.

Head part is bordered at the front by a scalloped band of white satin, edged with braid and blue and yellow satin, and embroidered with butterflies and small flowers in coloured silks.

Lower part of the front bordered by a band of white satin with scrolled top, edged with blue and yellow satin and with three outer lines of braid, embroidered in coloured silks and silver-gilt threads with a design of fret and flowers amongst which birds and sprays flowers appear at intervals.

Bottom of the hood finished off with a knotted end tasselled blue silk fringe with silver-gilt knot at the head of the tassels.

Given by HM Queen Mary

RF64/1106

This woman's hood is known as a fengmao (wind hat), and was worn with a cloak when travelling during cold weather. It has a large, round crown designed to fit over lavish hairstyles, and a long, curved back, trimmed with blue silk macramé and a tasselled fringe. The vibrant magenta colour of the silk gives the hood an intense and flamboyant appearance. It was probably dyed with one of the earliest synthetic colours imported from Europe from the late 1870s onwards. The hood is richly embroidered with various birds, butterflies and flowers, conveying wishes for longevity, prosperity and beauty to the wearer.

This hood once belonged to Queen Mary (1867-1953), the consort of George V (r. 1910-36), who was an avid collector of all kinds of objects, including many from China.

T.109-1964