Robe
1796-1820 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Manchu woman's dragon robe, semi-formal wear (jifu). Right side fastening (the four buttons have been taken away but one can still see stitches marks), long and tight sleeves, horsehoof cuffs (matixiu), no collar, slit at sides. Bright yellow silk satin damask with self-patterned large flowers lining. Tapestry-woven (kesi) garment, bright yellow ground, coloured silks, gold thread and details made by hand with a brush and coloured ink. The lower-sleeves are made of yellow silk twill weave.
The decoration features nine five-clawed dragons (three on the front, plus one beneath the flap, three on the back and one on each shoulder) pursuing sacred pearls amid clouds, bats, shou character and symbolical devices. The gown bears the Twelve Imperial emblems ( the Rock, the Constellation, The sacrificial cups, the Flames, The Sun and Moon disc, The Water seeds, The dish of Millet, the Fu, The Axe Head). The sleeves, below the level of the yellow with its proper edging of li-shui and waves, have an extra band of black kesi, with dragons in profile chasing a pearl above mountains, wave and shallow li-shui, then a horse-shoe cuff with dragon full-face above waves surrounded by cloud-bands and bats.At the hem are the standing water ( lishui) and rocks appearing among waves.
The kesi is of a high quality (very tight) and the details are very finely made by hand. The quality of the weaving, the 12 Imperials emblems, the colour of the robe could indicate it have been worn my a woman of the Imperial family, possibly a high ranking concubine, princess or consort under the Jiaqing period (1796-1820), however, in absence of provenance, we do not have any certainty.
The decoration features nine five-clawed dragons (three on the front, plus one beneath the flap, three on the back and one on each shoulder) pursuing sacred pearls amid clouds, bats, shou character and symbolical devices. The gown bears the Twelve Imperial emblems ( the Rock, the Constellation, The sacrificial cups, the Flames, The Sun and Moon disc, The Water seeds, The dish of Millet, the Fu, The Axe Head). The sleeves, below the level of the yellow with its proper edging of li-shui and waves, have an extra band of black kesi, with dragons in profile chasing a pearl above mountains, wave and shallow li-shui, then a horse-shoe cuff with dragon full-face above waves surrounded by cloud-bands and bats.At the hem are the standing water ( lishui) and rocks appearing among waves.
The kesi is of a high quality (very tight) and the details are very finely made by hand. The quality of the weaving, the 12 Imperials emblems, the colour of the robe could indicate it have been worn my a woman of the Imperial family, possibly a high ranking concubine, princess or consort under the Jiaqing period (1796-1820), however, in absence of provenance, we do not have any certainty.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silk tapestry (<i>kesi</i>) |
Brief description | Manchu woman's dragon robe (jifu), silk tapestry (kesi), China, Qing dynasty, Jiaqing period (1796-1820). |
Physical description | Manchu woman's dragon robe, semi-formal wear (jifu). Right side fastening (the four buttons have been taken away but one can still see stitches marks), long and tight sleeves, horsehoof cuffs (matixiu), no collar, slit at sides. Bright yellow silk satin damask with self-patterned large flowers lining. Tapestry-woven (kesi) garment, bright yellow ground, coloured silks, gold thread and details made by hand with a brush and coloured ink. The lower-sleeves are made of yellow silk twill weave. The decoration features nine five-clawed dragons (three on the front, plus one beneath the flap, three on the back and one on each shoulder) pursuing sacred pearls amid clouds, bats, shou character and symbolical devices. The gown bears the Twelve Imperial emblems ( the Rock, the Constellation, The sacrificial cups, the Flames, The Sun and Moon disc, The Water seeds, The dish of Millet, the Fu, The Axe Head). The sleeves, below the level of the yellow with its proper edging of li-shui and waves, have an extra band of black kesi, with dragons in profile chasing a pearl above mountains, wave and shallow li-shui, then a horse-shoe cuff with dragon full-face above waves surrounded by cloud-bands and bats.At the hem are the standing water ( lishui) and rocks appearing among waves. The kesi is of a high quality (very tight) and the details are very finely made by hand. The quality of the weaving, the 12 Imperials emblems, the colour of the robe could indicate it have been worn my a woman of the Imperial family, possibly a high ranking concubine, princess or consort under the Jiaqing period (1796-1820), however, in absence of provenance, we do not have any certainty. |
Dimensions |
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Style | |
Credit line | Purchased with Art Fund support |
Object history | Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier. |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.214-1948 |
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Record created | June 25, 2009 |
Record URL |
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