Changyi
Outer Gown
1850-1875 (made)
1850-1875 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Wide sleeves with replaceable linings that could be folded back to form cuffs are called wanxiu (‘rolled sleeves’). Originally a feature of Han Chinese women’s dress, Manchu court ladies adopted these turnback cuffs for the changyi, an informal outer gown that developed in the 19th century. It featured two long side slits, extending from underarm to hem, often trimmed with decorative borders, and would have been worn over another full-length robe (chenyi).
In this example, the cuffs in white satin-weave silk are embroidered with a whimsical pattern of floral roundels (‘flower-balls’, or piqiu hua). This was a new design that first became fashionable on imperial porcelain in the Yongzheng (1723-1735) and Qianlong periods (1736-95).
The changyi could be worn year round. This outer gown in teal satin, embroidered with sprays of chrysanthemums scattered on the main body, would have been worn in autumn.
In this example, the cuffs in white satin-weave silk are embroidered with a whimsical pattern of floral roundels (‘flower-balls’, or piqiu hua). This was a new design that first became fashionable on imperial porcelain in the Yongzheng (1723-1735) and Qianlong periods (1736-95).
The changyi could be worn year round. This outer gown in teal satin, embroidered with sprays of chrysanthemums scattered on the main body, would have been worn in autumn.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Changyi (generic title) |
| Materials and techniques | Satin-weave silk; embroidery in silk threads |
| Brief description | Outer gown for a Manchu woman (changyi), satin-weave silk; embroidery in silk threads, China, Qing dynasty, 1850-75 |
| Physical description | Outer gown for a Manchu woman (changyi) of sea green silk satin embroidered with coloured silks in satin and stem stitch with some Pekin knot stitch. Informal wear for Spring or Autumn. Right side fastening with 4 gilt metal buttons with flower pattern, no collar, long and wide sleeves, straight cuffs, high slit at sides. Lined with pink satin damask with self-patterned flowers. The main body is embroidered with scattered chrysanthemum patterns with multi-coloured floss silks. Neck, opening flap, side slits and hem are trimmed with decorative borders made of a narrow black bias-cut satin band, a wider black satin band embroidered with flowers in 3 shades of blue, and a warp-patterned orange ribbon. The facing of the cuffs is made of a white satin ground embroidered with small scale roundels containing flowers, butterflies in multi-coloured floss silks. |
| Dimensions |
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| Style | |
| Object history | This kind of Changyi robe would have been worn over an other robe. |
| Summary | Wide sleeves with replaceable linings that could be folded back to form cuffs are called wanxiu (‘rolled sleeves’). Originally a feature of Han Chinese women’s dress, Manchu court ladies adopted these turnback cuffs for the changyi, an informal outer gown that developed in the 19th century. It featured two long side slits, extending from underarm to hem, often trimmed with decorative borders, and would have been worn over another full-length robe (chenyi). In this example, the cuffs in white satin-weave silk are embroidered with a whimsical pattern of floral roundels (‘flower-balls’, or piqiu hua). This was a new design that first became fashionable on imperial porcelain in the Yongzheng (1723-1735) and Qianlong periods (1736-95). The changyi could be worn year round. This outer gown in teal satin, embroidered with sprays of chrysanthemums scattered on the main body, would have been worn in autumn. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.126-1966 |
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| Record created | June 25, 2009 |
| Record URL |
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