Not on display

Textile Fragment

19th century (made)
Place of origin

A silk, woven, patterned textile fragment. Striped and banded lampas. Ground of 3:1 twill, Z direction. The warps change colour to create a striped fabric. The pattern is creating using lisere effect of the ground warp and lance effect of the supplementary weft, also of changing colours. The design includes a band of colour and rows of patterned motifs (including floral motifs, balls, oblong shapes, spinning tops). The pattern is bound by the binding warp in a plain weave over ¼ of the [double] warp ends.

Warp
Ratio 4 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, doubles [with occasional singles - perhaps 1 single to 14 doubles]
purple, cream, light green, dark green, blue, bronze
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, slight S
red

Weft
Ratio 1:1
1) ground (lisere)
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green/straw intermingled
app. 20 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
dark green, cream, purple, yellow, light orange, dark orange, red
b) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Fragment of woven, patterned silk. Lampas. Japan, 19th century.
Physical description
A silk, woven, patterned textile fragment. Striped and banded lampas. Ground of 3:1 twill, Z direction. The warps change colour to create a striped fabric. The pattern is creating using lisere effect of the ground warp and lance effect of the supplementary weft, also of changing colours. The design includes a band of colour and rows of patterned motifs (including floral motifs, balls, oblong shapes, spinning tops). The pattern is bound by the binding warp in a plain weave over ¼ of the [double] warp ends.

Warp
Ratio 4 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, doubles [with occasional singles - perhaps 1 single to 14 doubles]
purple, cream, light green, dark green, blue, bronze
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, slight S
red

Weft
Ratio 1:1
1) ground (lisere)
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green/straw intermingled
app. 20 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
dark green, cream, purple, yellow, light orange, dark orange, red
b) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)

Dimensions
  • Width: 175mm
  • Height: 235mm
Gallery label
Figured silk. Yedo. Japan: 19th century. Warp and woof of varied colours.
Summary
A silk, woven, patterned textile fragment. Striped and banded lampas. Ground of 3:1 twill, Z direction. The warps change colour to create a striped fabric. The pattern is creating using lisere effect of the ground warp and lance effect of the supplementary weft, also of changing colours. The design includes a band of colour and rows of patterned motifs (including floral motifs, balls, oblong shapes, spinning tops). The pattern is bound by the binding warp in a plain weave over ¼ of the [double] warp ends.

Warp
Ratio 4 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, doubles [with occasional singles - perhaps 1 single to 14 doubles]
purple, cream, light green, dark green, blue, bronze
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, slight S
red

Weft
Ratio 1:1
1) ground (lisere)
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green/straw intermingled
app. 20 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
dark green, cream, purple, yellow, light orange, dark orange, red
b) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)

Collection
Accession number
FEC.LOST 98/15/4.20

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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