Textile Fragment
19th century (made)
| Place of origin |
A silk, woven, patterned lampas. A ground of irregular weave where 2, double, lines of 6 end satin alternate with 2, double, lines of complicated twill (3.1.1.1). The pattern is created using lance effects of the supplementary coloured wefts. The design is of tree branches, birds (some wearing hats, some holding small purse like motifs) above a fence with foliage beneath it. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a plain weave over ½ of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has the base edge and one side of selvedge. On the reverse Japanese characters are written onto a strip of the fabric using pink paint.
Warp
Ratio 2 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, double
yellow
app. 92 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist
cream
Weft
Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double
yellow
app. 48 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist
light blue, white
b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon
c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)
Warp
Ratio 2 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, double
yellow
app. 92 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist
cream
Weft
Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double
yellow
app. 48 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist
light blue, white
b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon
c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | woven silk and metallic paper strips |
| Brief description | Fragment of woven, patterned silk. Lampas. Japan, 19th century. |
| Physical description | A silk, woven, patterned lampas. A ground of irregular weave where 2, double, lines of 6 end satin alternate with 2, double, lines of complicated twill (3.1.1.1). The pattern is created using lance effects of the supplementary coloured wefts. The design is of tree branches, birds (some wearing hats, some holding small purse like motifs) above a fence with foliage beneath it. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a plain weave over ½ of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has the base edge and one side of selvedge. On the reverse Japanese characters are written onto a strip of the fabric using pink paint. Warp Ratio 2 (doubles):1 1) ground silk, x-ply, S twist, double yellow app. 92 ends cm 2) binding silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist cream Weft Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary) 1) ground silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double yellow app. 48 picks cm 2) supplementary lance a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist light blue, white b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only) |
| Dimensions |
|
| Marks and inscriptions | There are Japanese characters written on the reverse.
|
| Summary | A silk, woven, patterned lampas. A ground of irregular weave where 2, double, lines of 6 end satin alternate with 2, double, lines of complicated twill (3.1.1.1). The pattern is created using lance effects of the supplementary coloured wefts. The design is of tree branches, birds (some wearing hats, some holding small purse like motifs) above a fence with foliage beneath it. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a plain weave over ½ of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has the base edge and one side of selvedge. On the reverse Japanese characters are written onto a strip of the fabric using pink paint. Warp Ratio 2 (doubles):1 1) ground silk, x-ply, S twist, double yellow app. 92 ends cm 2) binding silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist cream Weft Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary) 1) ground silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double yellow app. 48 picks cm 2) supplementary lance a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist light blue, white b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only) |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | FEC.LOST 98/15/4.22 |
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| Record created | June 25, 2009 |
| Record URL |
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